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Matthes Crest: exit down from notch?

Original Post
kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

This morning I visited the west side of the Matthes Crest and tried to climb _up_ to the notch between the South and North summits. I didn't make it (soloing) up to the notch because I ran into a section of down-sloping holds, and the flake with positive holds for upward (a bit N from center) looked too fragile for me to trust with my life. Anyway ...
really the point is to get _down_ from the notch (after doing part of the Traverse).

Rappel?
I've heard reports that some parties have successfully rappeled from the notch with a single rope.
How long a rope? or how short?
. . . (Some soloists like to go light by carrying a rope less than 60 meters).
I did see today some rappel anchors with new-looking slings, but I was not able to measure how far apart they were.
Anybody done the rappels? with a single 60 meter rope? shorter rope?

Down-climb?
A couple of years ago I thought I remember somebody saying on MP forum that it could be done (solo) at 3rd-class difficulty. I feel I didn't find that this morning.

Has somebody else climbed down from (or up to) notch?
Want to give an assessment of difficulty grade?
Or hint about how to get through the upper section?

Thanks a lot,

Ken

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

I've rapped the notch with a single 60. (Last summer) I remember all the anchors being obvious and of reasonable quality. All were horns, threads or the like.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California Partners
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