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Matterhorness 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 2007 Tony Horness, Tony Lusk, Andy Tretiakoff
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 977
Submitted By: Antoine Horness on Aug 11, 2008
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The start of the pumpy climbing above the undercli...
UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Undercling above ledge to the crux with a overhung pumpy finish


Location 

9th route from the north end that starts under the obvious roof


Protection 

B,C



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By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Jan 30, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Really fun moves on this climb, especially near the top. Pumpy and somewhat sustained. Unfortunately the bolting job could use a little tweaking. A few are awkward to clip, especially for shorter people, and one leaves the bottom 'biner of your draw resting over a 90 degree edge (don't fall on that one)

By David K
Feb 2, 2009

Fun climb. Definitely a 10 and pretty sustained throughout. I didn't notice the biner problem, maybe I just wasn't paying attention.

By Micah Kurtz
Jan 26, 2011

Skipped the last bolt because I was a little too far right of it. Got pumped right at the anchors and fell near the last move. Took about a 30 foot whipper. It was a fun climb.

By Chris Horton
From: Tucson AZ
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

If not for the huge ledge, this would be pretty classic. Very fun up top, the first couple of moves off the deck are cool too. Best line of the crag.

By Chris Craig
Aug 26, 2013

Fun steep route on big holds.