Bag an easy summit on this cute miniature mountain. Three newer routes are bolted up the steep face right of the Standard Route, but I'm not sure what there are rated. Each pulls over the big roof at the second bolts and goes up an easier-looking face. 5.10, 5.11? The rock is somewhat questionable under the overhang. Good bouldering is nearby on Matterhorn boulder, just to the south.
Easy five minute approach. Park on the east side of the road at a pullout across from Lizard Rock. The Matterhorn is the obvious 200-foot peak visible through the trees. A lonely little tree stands atop the summit. Follow the wash to an absolutely bizarre little balanced rock pinnacle (someone has to have climbed this, despite the licheny slab topout). Take the right fork of the wash and up across slabs to another wash/gully. Follow this wash to where you can see the Matterhorn again through an opening in the trees. A few yards more and there is something vaguely trail-like heading right to the base of the wall.
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Matterhorn:
Featured Route For Matterhorn
Standard Route 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c AZ
: Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin...
: ... : Matterhorn
Start in chimney formed by detached giant flake. There is a bolt at the stance on top of the flake. Move right then up easy face to hanging 2-bolt belay. Chickenhead hike to top, belaying off tree*. EFR doesn't give any stars, but the wannabe alpinist in me likes the idea of a summit, so I like this route. Fun and easy. *Check that, apparently the tree has gone AWOL....[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
Latest Regional Forum Messages
The alternate finger crack start of the standard r...
The view from the top of the Matterhorn with Lizar...
Mar 16, 2007
The "lonely tree" on the summit is no longer there.
From: missoula, mt
Oct 25, 2007
to the left of the easy chimney route there is a finger crack that protects the start much better. its about 5.9 and it goes past a small tree about 10 feet off the ground. if you go strait up the chimney you have to wait a little while for your pro and it gets a bit run out over easy terrain. FA?
|By James DeRoussel|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 14, 2008
As mentioned above, the tree on the summit is no longer there. There is, however, a huge boulder on the summit that can be slung with 10-12' of webbing for a bomber anchor.
|By Adam Block|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 11, 2009
Any info on the bolted routes on the backside, I didn't go up top but it seems you could top rope the route. Odd spot for a climb, I didn't spend much time but it didn't seem to have a good location to belay. It looks like there are two sets on anchors.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 9, 2011
I have small hands and the "finger crack" start was more like thin hands for me. Pretty wide to be considered a finger crack in my opinion. There are tons of face holds around as well so next to no actual jamming is required.
|By Adrian Allred|
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 21, 2011
Looks like there were anchors on the back side of the rock, any info on why these were taken out? Looks like a fun climb along the back.