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Matterhorn: West Face Chimney  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1 [details]
FA: Dave Coughlin and Dave Jensen in 1973
Page Views: 1,627
Submitted By: Billcoe on Mar 3, 2009

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Matterhorn West Face with route descriptions and l...


Dave Jensen had this to say on the 2 big Matterhorn climbs he did: "The Grade IV (up the West Face chimney) was much the better climb--fun exciting free climbing in cracks and chimneys to a ledge one pitch below the finish. The V was aid climbing in the hard places with hammock bivouac followed by a ledge bivouac. Poor rock and dangerous on both climbs. A lot of work hauling in there.


Drive through Enterprise to Joseph on Highway 82, and keep going to the end of the highway at the south end of Wallowa Lake. The Wallowa Lake trailhead is at the very end of the road, elevation 4,600 feet. Take the West Fork Wallowa River trail.


Knifeblades to big Chocks (Hexes) No bolts used.

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