Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Wallowa Mountains
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barley Cox Route T 
Barley Hurley Route T 
Benthos Buttress T 
Benthos Buttress - The Kozjak Route T 
Benthos Buttress - Unnamed T 
Brownie Basin - Chimney Point - The Slab T 
Brownie Basin Granite T 
Matterhorn: West Face Chimney  T 
Matterhorn: West Face Wall T 
Pete's Point 
Unsorted Routes:

Matterhorn: West Face Chimney  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A1 [details]
FA: Dave Coughlin and Dave Jensen in 1973
Page Views: 1,774
Submitted By: Billcoe on Mar 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Matterhorn West Face with route descriptions and l...


Dave Jensen had this to say on the 2 big Matterhorn climbs he did: "The Grade IV (up the West Face chimney) was much the better climb--fun exciting free climbing in cracks and chimneys to a ledge one pitch below the finish. The V was aid climbing in the hard places with hammock bivouac followed by a ledge bivouac. Poor rock and dangerous on both climbs. A lot of work hauling in there.


Drive through Enterprise to Joseph on Highway 82, and keep going to the end of the highway at the south end of Wallowa Lake. The Wallowa Lake trailhead is at the very end of the road, elevation 4,600 feet. Take the West Fork Wallowa River trail.


Knifeblades to big Chocks (Hexes) No bolts used.

Comments on Matterhorn: West Face Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!