Matterhorn Peak 

Start on the right side of North Arete. After the approach up the narrow snow gully (just left of West Couloir) climb in a big left-facing dihedral (that is likely to have some snow or ice in it). Climb up the dihedral. Than traverse left to a ledge, and up to the second dihedral with a wide crack. This 2nd dihedral could be reached from the left side of the North Arete as well. Climb up this dihedral (crux) to a head-wall. There is a block to sling right under the headwall. Sling this block and...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA