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Anarchy Wall
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Matriarch 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 1,001
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jul 25, 2001

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Photo by Leeanne.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

When Kurt Smith bolted Presto, I was a little disappointed because he added only one route where I figured there could be two. Matriarch was conceived as a direct start to Presto. Challenging moves put you on a sloping ledge. Step left, then work up a small right-facing arch to the crux dyno for slopers. A few quick pulls deposit you in the lay-down rest on Presto, but the climbing isn't over. Two more .12 cruxes on the upper half of Presto (with another great rest in between) take you to the anchor hooks and a free-hanging drop to the base.


Protection 

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor with open 1/2" coldshuts.



Photos of Matriarch Slideshow Add Photo
Setting up for the crux dyno.  You can see the chalked hold out right.
Setting up for the crux dyno. You can see the cha...
Pumped and falling off the middle headwall crux.
Pumped and falling off the middle headwall crux.
Steve Z, photo by G. Parker.
Steve Z, photo by G. Parker.
Comments on Matriarch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Weitzel
Oct 6, 2002

Matriarch is fantastic. I like both of the direct lines (matriarch and maestro) much better than presto as there is less wandering about. THe sloper crux on this one is sweet, but definitely tough. One of the best on the wall.

By Mark MacClary
May 18, 2004

40 DOLLAR REWARD FOR ANY INFORMATION LEADING TO THE IDENTIFICATION OF THE PERSON THAT STOLE MY DRAWS OFF OF MATRIARCH. I repeat, I will pay anyone 40 bucks for any information that will lead me to the gutless f*cking punk b*tch that stole my draws off matriarch. Please email me or just leave a comment if you have any information, car type, color, or even a general description of the person. And to the asshole that stole them, if you contact me first I promise no harm will come to you, but be warned, I have been climbing in Colorado for over seven years now and regularly visit every crag in the state. So every time you use them you better be looking over your shoulder because once I find you I promise we are going to fight. If you think I'm bluffing, just wait, I will find you.

By Anonymous Coward
May 19, 2004

Lighten up, Francis. Everybody has had gear stolen, and it sucks. But there are assholes out there and people who don't know better. Threatening to fight the person who stole your gear is not very constructive.

By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2004

As for this idea of "abandoned property", wouldn't hangers be the same thing? If you needed a few for a route you were bolting, couldn't you just strip a few that were sitting around on a climb? using this logic, I don't see why not. Sarcastic, I realize. The real idea is that draws on a sport route aren't to be taken. You simply cannot argue that they are abandoned property, they are not bail biners. Like Greaser said, no grey area. Violent threats and calls to manhood aside, it's sad we can't leave draws up to work a route at every crag at the state, but use discretion at certain places.

By Chris Cavallaro
Jan 10, 2005

Some jerk took the hanger off the first bolt. Anyone willing to replace it? Thanks in advance!

By Chris Cavallaro
Dec 8, 2008

LOOSE BLOCK on Matriarch!
The 'flake' after the crux (immediately before the lying down rest) is VERY loose!

You use this thing on both routes (Presto/Matriarch) and the right side of the flake is detached yet the left side seems solidly held to the wall. The right side is moving. I am hoping to get up there with some epoxy to reinforce, but I have never done that type of work on a route before, so if anyone has the motivation please go take a look. Otherwise, I will see what I can do.

Although, should this thing just be trundled? Like I said, it seems very solid on the left side, but there is no way of telling if it has hidden fractures.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Don't try this in the heat.

Edit 06/09/2013: haha sent this thing in the heat today!