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Unsorted Routes:

Matinee 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Yvon Chouinard & Jim Andress - 1961
FFA: Jim McCarthy & John Hudson - 1963
Page Views: 6,005
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think...

Description 

Two short pitches that are very different in character.

From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.

P1: At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pillar to belay. 5.10, 50'.

P2: Step back right from the pillar, and head up a very steep, powerful corner system using jugs and jams. Continue up and left to belay at a tree. 5.10d, 75'.

Walk off via the Uberfall Descent.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Matinee Slideshow Add Photo
A furry creature hanging out at the base a few weeks ago.
A furry creature hanging out at the base a few wee...
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s as evidenced by the painters pants (note bloody knee) and green Shoenards. I've got the horn at the end of the crux and am reaching back to clean a piece placed to limit the second's swing. Hexes on 9mm and big SMC wedges. Photo by Hardie Truesdale?
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s ...
Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matinee.
Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...
In the crux on pitch 2.  Photo by Tricia.
In the crux on pitch 2. Photo by Tricia.
Michelle Moffat in the first crux of 'Matinee (10d)' at the Gunks. Photo by Tony Bubb, 10/03.
Michelle Moffat in the first crux of 'Matinee (10d...
Michelle Moffat finishes up 'Matinee' (10d) at the gunks. Photo by Tony Bubb, 10/03.
Michelle Moffat finishes up 'Matinee' (10d) at the...
Gwen getting into the P2 crux.
Gwen getting into the P2 crux.
Tony Bubb under the roof while they lower the lights for the cheap afternoon show on 'Matinee' (10d) at the Gunks. Photo by Michelle Moffat, 9/03.
Tony Bubb under the roof while they lower the ligh...
Michelle Moffat emerges from the second crux of Matinee' (10d) at the gunks. Photo by Tony Bubb, 10/03.
Michelle Moffat emerges from the second crux of Ma...

Comments on Matinee Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2006

There are 2 ways to do P1. A tricky undercling, or a cartwheel, if you're tall enough, to reach a finger lock. Both end at a layback off a black horn from which you can clip a fixed pin. It's a big, but understandable, mistake to reach for the lip too soon.

P2 was never easy for me. As I got stronger over the years, the holds got worse as they crumbled away. I usually had to lunge it. There's a more elegant stemming way, which I may have done once.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A great climb with great moves. Doable at any height, but not with the same beta. My 5'0" partner made short work of it with a totally different sequence than me, and I did it differently than Ivan suggests.
By kyle lefkoff
Oct 1, 2006

Ivan's been populating the Gunks site with great stories from the day, so here's mine on Matinee:

In 1978, Barber was at his peak as the world's best on sight trad climber and the leader of the Gunks A-team. On a perfect fall day, I had finished Ape Call with a partner and settled onto the Matinee ledge to watch Henry send.

We all threw for the crux second pitch jug in those days, but Henry static'd gracefully through the corner, perfect position all the way to the belay. His belayers each roped up in turn, threw for the jug and each missed, twice.

Henry was getting sick of catching these goombahs on big falls around his waist. I asked if I could step up to the plate, got the nod, and sent it first go. Did my best to style through the corners above.

Henry saw the uncontrollable grin on my face at the stance. "Nice job" he said, graciously. A 19-year old Vassar sophmore, complimented by the world's greatest rock climber.

While I've climbed with Henry on several occasions since then, on that day he became my hero.



By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
May 18, 2007

The photo is great, what a time capsule. How about the blue pin-striped collar shirt, with the brown sweater? Standard issue prep school look.
Great days.
By Brad Parry
Oct 25, 2007

What a route. This history, the variety of movement...

The anchor in the middle of the second pitch??????? wtf.

Quality climbing for the entirety of the two pitches.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 14, 2009

Bitchin' easy if you got the guns. Maybe one of the only routes that is overgraded !!! I recall a similar photo of my man Al Rubin in similar distress wearing robbin's boots. HOLY SHIT !!! john
By David Stowe
Jan 19, 2009

Overgraded?! I don't think so. I have always found Matinee to be the hardest 5.10 in the Gunks. Gives me much more trouble than Coex, Graveyard, Winter as well as few 5.11's. The first pitch can certainly become familiar and purely technical if you know where all the holds are, but the second pitch is BURLY! No way that it is overgraded. A good hard climb, but certainly not soft.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Somewhat forgettable climbing. Each crux consists of one sequence. The quality of the first pitch is significantly compromised by the slickness of the feet. More like 10b than 10d.

The second pitch is hard, but the actual climbing consists of about two moves.