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Matinee 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Yvon Chouinard & Jim Andress - 1961
FFA: Jim McCarthy & John Hudson - 1963
Page Views: 8,544
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Scott Perkins captures a great shot of me on Matin...

Description 

Two short pitches that are very different in character.

From the Uberfall, walk about 2 minutes down the carriage road, until you see a huge left-facing corner and roof. This is the route. It's also 30-40 feet right of Betty.

P1: At any other area the grade of 10d would be just fine. A slightly atypical Gunks climb: delicate underclinging. Climb up a short left-facing corner to the obvious, huge low roof, and undercling left. Continue past the end of the roof and step over to a pillar to belay. 5.10, 50'.

P2: Step back right from the pillar, and head up a very steep, powerful corner system using jugs and jams. Continue up and left to belay at a tree. 5.10d, 75'.

Descent: walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Matinee Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think...
Matinee, P1, 1976 approximately. Photo by (I think...
Rock Climbing Photo: A furry creature hanging out at the base a few wee...
A furry creature hanging out at the base a few wee...
Rock Climbing Photo: As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s ...
As classic as the previous photo. Mid to late 70s ...
Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux on pitch 2.  Photo by Tricia.
In the crux on pitch 2. Photo by Tricia.
Rock Climbing Photo: Michelle Moffat in the first crux of 'Matinee (10d...
Michelle Moffat in the first crux of 'Matinee (10d...
Rock Climbing Photo: Michelle Moffat finishes up 'Matinee' (10d) at the...
Michelle Moffat finishes up 'Matinee' (10d) at the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the second crux on p1
Getting into the second crux on p1
Rock Climbing Photo: Jaysen Henderson protecting the undercling travers...
Jaysen Henderson protecting the undercling travers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gwen getting into the P2 crux.
Gwen getting into the P2 crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Michelle Moffat emerges from the second crux of Ma...
Michelle Moffat emerges from the second crux of Ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb under the roof while they lower the ligh...
Tony Bubb under the roof while they lower the ligh...

Comments on Matinee Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 22, 2006

There are 2 ways to do P1. A tricky undercling, or a cartwheel, if you're tall enough, to reach a finger lock. Both end at a layback off a black horn from which you can clip a fixed pin. It's a big, but understandable, mistake to reach for the lip too soon.

P2 was never easy for me. As I got stronger over the years, the holds got worse as they crumbled away. I usually had to lunge it. There's a more elegant stemming way, which I may have done once.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A great climb with great moves. Doable at any height, but not with the same beta. My 5'0" partner made short work of it with a totally different sequence than me, and I did it differently than Ivan suggests.
By kyle lefkoff
Oct 1, 2006

Ivan's been populating the Gunks site with great stories from the day, so here's mine on Matinee:

In 1978, Barber was at his peak as the world's best on sight trad climber and the leader of the Gunks A-team. On a perfect fall day, I had finished Ape Call with a partner and settled onto the Matinee ledge to watch Henry send.

We all threw for the crux second pitch jug in those days, but Henry static'd gracefully through the corner, perfect position all the way to the belay. His belayers each roped up in turn, threw for the jug and each missed, twice.

Henry was getting sick of catching these goombahs on big falls around his waist. I asked if I could step up to the plate, got the nod, and sent it first go. Did my best to style through the corners above.

Henry saw the uncontrollable grin on my face at the stance. "Nice job" he said, graciously. A 19-year old Vassar sophmore, complimented by the world's greatest rock climber.

While I've climbed with Henry on several occasions since then, on that day he became my hero.



By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
May 18, 2007

The photo is great, what a time capsule. How about the blue pin-striped collar shirt, with the brown sweater? Standard issue prep school look.
Great days.
By Brad Parry
Oct 25, 2007

What a route. This history, the variety of movement...

The anchor in the middle of the second pitch??????? wtf.

Quality climbing for the entirety of the two pitches.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 14, 2009

Bitchin' easy if you got the guns. Maybe one of the only routes that is overgraded !!! I recall a similar photo of my man Al Rubin in similar distress wearing robbin's boots. HOLY SHIT !!! john
By David Stowe
Jan 19, 2009

Overgraded?! I don't think so. I have always found Matinee to be the hardest 5.10 in the Gunks. Gives me much more trouble than Coex, Graveyard, Winter as well as few 5.11's. The first pitch can certainly become familiar and purely technical if you know where all the holds are, but the second pitch is BURLY! No way that it is overgraded. A good hard climb, but certainly not soft.
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Somewhat forgettable climbing. Each crux consists of one sequence. The quality of the first pitch is significantly compromised by the slickness of the feet. More like 10b than 10d.

The second pitch is hard, but the actual climbing consists of about two moves.
By Backwards Eric
Jul 13, 2016

P1 was interesting. I did not like the slick feet but enjoyed the tricky tension move right before grabbing the lip on the traverse. However, the gear placements are so small. I think I got in one or two #.3 C4, then towards the end of the traverse (still before grabbing the outer lip) I tried a #.1,.2,red ball nut, and finally got an orange ball nut at the end of its range to fit (all while burning my calves on those tiny, slick footholds). Once I got past the lip I added a #.75 C4 and nut and finished the traverse. My second fell near the end of that traverse and the ball nut popped (.75/nut held). So she took a tumble and pendulumed toward me over to the pedestal (helmet took the impact, no injury, just shook up).
So if I ever do this again, I'd skip the P1 traverse and just do an easy way up the pedestal, then enjoy the fun and more protectable P2.

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