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Routes in 5. Drugs and Sex
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Acid Mother Temple S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Adrenochrome Trundle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cocaine Rodeo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dickin's Cider S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Drug of Choice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Ecstasy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Face Melter Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Happy Hole S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Heroin Hoedown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kama Sutra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Last Dance With Mary Jane S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mater Hater S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Prison Sex S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Reverse Cowgirl S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Too Many Holes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Trippin' Balls S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vitamin I S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vitamin K S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,806 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | kuus kuus on Aug 30, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Yet another fun 12 on the Drugs and Sex wall. Just to the right of cocaine, this route is easily distinguished by the left to right slanting ledge. Slap your way up this deceptively hard feature to gain the very fun crux which is followed by perfect two finger pockets on the headwall.
One note: I'm 6'2" with a +4 index and I could hardly reach to clip draws to the second and third bolts. Have your tall friend lead this first or, better yet, use a stick clip to pre-hang draws 2 and 3.
One note: I'm 6'2" with a +4 index and I could hardly reach to clip draws to the second and third bolts. Have your tall friend lead this first or, better yet, use a stick clip to pre-hang draws 2 and 3.
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