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 ADVANCED
Head Wall
Routes Sorted
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All Things Considered S 
China Crisis S,TR 
Coughing up Fleming S 
Feng Shui S 
Hubba Bubba S 
Little Creatures T 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Reaches From Hell S 
Skinhead Grin S 
Skinhead Sin S 
So Freakin' Fun S 
Stellar Idea S 
Tworgasaminimum T 
Verde Bunyan S 
Verde Suave S 

Masterpiece Theatre 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Horst / Thompson
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: ---- on Sep 10, 2012

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Description 

Masterpiece Theatre is artsy and thoughtful the entire way with just the right amount of burly moves to get your adrenaline going. Although the steep beginning section looks the most intimidating, the true difficulties are found above on the slopey headwall. A good strategy for maximizing enjoyment on this route is to either top rope it off of “So Freakin’ Fun,” or at the very least lower down the route, give it a good scrubbing, tick some holds and hang all the draws before giving it a good effort.

Begin by scrambling to the top of a pile of choss. Stick clip either the first or second draw. Launch into a series of grippy crimps that take you to some nice jugs at the lip. A long draw on the third bolt may save you some hassle. Next, move sequentially to the right being sure to keep your balance as you set up for the technical crux. Long arms and legs are a great asset to have for this crux. Move beyond the crux through some easier face climbing. There is a no hands ledge right before the redpoint crux. When fully rested move rightward through some crimps to a surprisingly dynamic finish.


Location 

Starts up on a ledge 10 feet left of the offwidth dihedral. Look for orange and black crimps on a steep beginning face.


Protection 

9 Bolts Plus Anchor



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