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Upper Falls - Ice
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Back in Black 
Cheap Thrills 
Master of Puppets 
Pencil aka Candlestick, The 
Slabs, The 
Thriller 
Unknown, boulder 

Master of Puppets 

M8-9 R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus: M8-9 [details]
FA: pre-bolts - ?
Season: Year round mates!
Page Views: 1,344
Submitted By: Phoenix on Apr 14, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Master of Puppets.

Description 

A good hard line. Start up the ramp to a broken crack system, and move up trending left. The first crux is gaining the seam. From here, follow good hooks, and then move up and left through a corner. Now the second crux, move up on small edges and hook the lip. Pull up on the lip and you can reach a pocket deep and a little left (KEY) now mantle and you're done!
NOTE: An attentive belay is an absolute must for the mantle move!


Location 

The furthest line left at the Upper falls area.


Protection 

#0.75-.00 cams, 2 pins (use screamers), 1 small/med stopper, 1 wire/small stopper, and nuts. Not for the feint of heart.


Regulations 

Eds. Please do not place new bolts at this area. The regulations are clearly posted at this area. Thanks for helping keep this area open to climbers!



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By Phoenix
From: louisville, colorado
Apr 14, 2009

Open season!!! Have at it, my friends! I didn't give it a star rating due to an obvious bias, but the climbing on this route is fantastic!

By Chris Sheridan
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 14, 2009

Other ethical questions aside, does this crack really need bolts?

By Tom Dickey
Apr 14, 2009

This has been done a few times before, over the years, on toprope. I did this at least 12 years ago, and I certainly wasn't the first. Great line, I agree, rating about right, Fine name. I was also tried a direct finish, almost got it a few times with verglas on the slab, but failed/flailed on the final few moves. I can't wait to lead it-- contemplated it with trad rack and pins-- guess I don't have to worry about the pins now. Nice line.

By Phoenix
From: louisville, colorado
Apr 15, 2009

Tom, the line you are referring to is actually Back in Black. It follows the crack most of the way up and traverses to a pillar out right. And yes, it has been done before, back in the '90s. I did a whole lot of investigating before I developed this route and the info I obtained was mostly from Jack Roberts via my other contacts. The original line was protected by 3 (bad) pins. I removed the only pin that hadn't fallen out when it was bolted. I contemplated leaving it in, but it did not look safe, and was VERY easily cleaned. So to answer your question Chris, I extinguished every possible way to protect this climb without bolts. As it was, the climb was simply not safe in any way shape of form. Now, it is a good spicy lead, and totally safe for people to enjoy.

By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Apr 16, 2009

Thanks for the work, duder!

By Chris Sheridan
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2009

Cool, can't wait to get on it.