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The New River Wall
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Master Beta 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 2,073
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 28, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: New River Wall.


This is the rarely repeated extension to "Beta Test". The line is obvious - a worthless seam across a horizontal 8' roof. After clipping a bolt out in the middle of the roof and rigging slings to keep down the rope drag, a wild move launches you to a handlebar jug on the lip. Hook your heel by your hand to let go and clip the bolt just over the lip, then mantle on up to the anchors above. Failure will leave you dangling in space with no easy way to get back on the rock. Success means you're definitely a "Master" of rock. Cleaning the route is a pain, but most folks don't even get as far as the lip, so it isn't a problem. A unique adventure, and one of biggest horizontal roof tests in the canyon.


Four bolts on "Beta Test", some long slings on the "Beta Test" anchor hooks, with two more bolts across the roof to a pair of bolts with 1/2" anchor hooks up over the lip.

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