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The New River Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ali Natural  S 
Aqua Huck 
Beta Test S 
Bitch Strength 
Crucifixtion  S 
Dark Waters 
Dark Waters Stand 
Dark Waters Traverse 
Deep Sea Angler 
Dragonslayer S 
Enjoy Your Youth  S 
Execution  S 
Flash Flood 
Fluid Mechanic 
Formula 50 
Formula 500 
Fountain of Youth S 
Good Vibrations  S 
Green Herbs'n Sam 
High Waters 
Kinky Reggae S 
Kinky Reggae Direct Start  S 
Know Your Enemies  S 
Know Your Inclinations  S 
La Mega Positive  S 
Love Your Enemies  T,S 
Love Your Inclinations  T,S 
Master Beta S 
Merlin S 
Mobbin' Around 
No More Crucifixions  S 
No More Enemies  S 
No More Inclinations  S 
Positive Vibrations  S 
Public Crucifixion  S 
Public Enemy T,S 
Public Enemy Direct Start S 
Public Execution  S 
Public Inclinations  T,S 
Public Inclinations Direct Start  S 
Public Youth S 
Red Makes Me Angry! 
Sonic Vibrations  S 
Sonic Youth S 
Swamp Traverse 
Sweet Inclinations  S 
Sweet Inspirations S 
Than's Problem? 
Unknown at New River S 
Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings) 
Unsorted Routes:

Master Beta 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 2,582
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 28, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: New River Wall.

Upper Canyon access closed - 8p Mar. 22 - 5p Mar. 28 MORE INFO >>>


This is the rarely repeated extension to "Beta Test". The line is obvious - a worthless seam across a horizontal 8' roof. After clipping a bolt out in the middle of the roof and rigging slings to keep down the rope drag, a wild move launches you to a handlebar jug on the lip. Hook your heel by your hand to let go and clip the bolt just over the lip, then mantle on up to the anchors above. Failure will leave you dangling in space with no easy way to get back on the rock. Success means you're definitely a "Master" of rock. Cleaning the route is a pain, but most folks don't even get as far as the lip, so it isn't a problem. A unique adventure, and one of biggest horizontal roof tests in the canyon.


Four bolts on "Beta Test", some long slings on the "Beta Test" anchor hooks, with two more bolts across the roof to a pair of bolts with 1/2" anchor hooks up over the lip.

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