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Massive Vertigo Area
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Massive Vertigo 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A [details]
FA: Peter De Salvo
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 1,725
Submitted By: SteveSchultz on Aug 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Sticking the crux move on the send. Quick work!

Description 

Start on the crimp rail towards the bottom of the pit and climb up and left to the sloper on the arete. Go up from here.

Ed: Originally given V8, new/easier beta has been found (see below-- sweaty's video is him doing the original V8).


Location 

This boulder sits on the left side of the talus field about 75 yards up from the lake.


Protection 

Pads and spotters. Not a perfect landing.



Photos of Massive Vertigo Slideshow Add Photo
Nic absolutely hiking Massive Vertigo.
Nic absolutely hiking Massive Vertigo.
Ian topping out the flash.
Ian topping out the flash.
Sweaty sticking the crux move.
Sweaty sticking the crux move.
Sweaty sticking the thank-God-jug.
Sweaty sticking the thank-God-jug.
Dobbe nearing the finish.
Dobbe nearing the finish.
Chris flashing Massive Vertigo!  Well done!
Chris flashing Massive Vertigo! Well done!
Dobbe during his send.
Dobbe during his send.
At the crux move.
At the crux move.
Dobbe going to the rail.
Dobbe going to the rail.
Starts in the black spot in the bottom middle of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: Starts in the black spot in the bottom middle of t...
Remo cleaning up another project.
Remo cleaning up another project.
Jeff sending.
Jeff sending.
Katie owns this problem!
Katie owns this problem!
Comments on Massive Vertigo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 25, 2011
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 10, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

Sweet! Good work finding it again Steve.

By SteveSchultz
Oct 12, 2009

Very cool problem! It comes down to one hard move and I can't wait to come back again and do it! Fun gymnastic moves on an overhanging arete!!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 13, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

Agreed with Steve. This problem is awesome, can't wait to try it again. Sweaty shows up and just crushed it. So strong Sweaty!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 13, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Here's the video of the send. compliments of professional videographer Steve :-)

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 14, 2009

sweet send Jon! You crushed it.

By SteveSchultz
Oct 14, 2009

I'm a pretty kickass videographer Sweaty. You're lucky I used my talents on you.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 14, 2009
rating: V8 7B

That's why I made sure to give you credit :-) To be fair though I thought the video thru the crux was very well done. However, once i get to the jugs my ass was litterally in your face. kind of hard to do anything with the camera at that point.

By Peter DeSalvo
Oct 20, 2009

Nice send. Your beta is way different and harder ...HA

By Peter DeSalvo
Oct 20, 2009

There are alot of problems that need to be done between jega and massive vertigo. Alot with very bad landings!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 20, 2009
rating: V8 7B

What was your beta man?

By Peter DeSalvo
Oct 20, 2009

heel on the start hold and go for the pitch below the crimper you use then right to the sloppy pinch

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Oct 20, 2009
rating: V8 7B

huh interesting. Did Andy and Kevin try it that way too? how did it work for them?

By Peter DeSalvo
Oct 20, 2009

we were all kinda close but that move is the stopper for sure. They got jenga pretty fast too.

By nicros fivten
Nov 9, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

knee scum beta= easier?

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 9, 2009
rating: V8 7B

and = gayer... Good job on the send buddy :-)

By nicros fivten
Nov 9, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

Sweaty.

2 words. ALPINE CLUB.

By nicros fivten
Nov 9, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

BOOSH!

NIC+KNEE PAD= RAD!

I win again.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 9, 2009
rating: V8 7B

Why u have to rub in the fact that u are strong and I'm a sally.

By nicros fivten
Nov 9, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

Not stronger, I just own a knee pad.

Sorry.

Can we make up?

By SteveSchultz
Nov 9, 2009

Make out is the proper term, Nic. Get it together!

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 10, 2009
rating: V8 7B

I'm down with doing either :-)

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

The knee bar is the money beta. We had a send train using the knee pad. It did feel like cheating a bit, but it is still a great problem.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 2, 2009
rating: V8 7B

F***ing kneepads. lol. great job guys. sickness!

By nicros fivten
Dec 2, 2009
rating: V6+ 7A

I have done a few things at devil's lake, none are greater than finding that knee-bar.

By Dobbe
Dec 3, 2009

Knee pad=3 sends in four try's! Maybe more like 6 that way.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2009
rating: V8 7B

You guys had a killer day. And you sir have been on a wisconsin rampage this week. I'm glad it wasn't to cold for you guys to climb and you were all able to get some shit dealt with. most excellent.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 3, 2009
rating: V8 7B

p.s. Nic I'll never forgive you...

By Peter DeSalvo
Dec 3, 2009

knee pads??? What is this Rifle? So who is down for going up this weekend and searching for some boulders?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 10, 2011
rating: V6+ 7A

So did Katie get the FFA??? Nice job!!!!!!!

By Rock Warrior Films
Jul 22, 2011

Katie crushes this thing in our new video Midwest Unknown

By greg bahr
Sep 24, 2011

did some one on MP actually downgrade a problem cause one person used a "kneepad" i dont get the downgrade to a 6? the main obvious line climbed is def. an 8?

By SteveSchultz
Sep 24, 2011

Hey Greg, the kneebar beta is the easiest and most logical way to climb this problem now. Just off the top of my head I can count 8 different people that have done the problem with this beta and it is now the accepted way.

This is the exact same line as it's always been, but is just easier if you can stick the kneebar in and do what used to be the crux move static.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 24, 2011
rating: V6+ 7A

Most of us who've done it recently have used a knee pad. Once easier beta is found the original beta is generally abandoned. Sad but true!

By greg bahr
Sep 25, 2011

Thanks Chris and Steve for the info.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2011
rating: V6+ 7A

To be honest Greg I don't really like the bouldering-kneepad-trend @ DL, but showing up to do Massive Vertigo, Black Sheep, or Public Enemy without a knee pad would be a little like showing up at Rifle without one. Although maybe I don't like the trend cuz I'm a cheapskate and I don't own one. :)

By Tradoholic
Sep 25, 2011

Vinny made a sweet knee-pad from C4 Rubber he got by the sheet at Eastside shoe repair. Wouldn't use of a knee pad be just like wearing shoes? Sounds like a new forum topic on the concept is needed ;)