This is essentially two boulders in a park which emphasize friction technique. One is a single, large, ocean front, slabby, granite boulder near Gloucester (probably 40 minutes from Boston) with a sandy base that is probably up to about 30 ft tall at most. The other is a small buttress N & E of the main boulder. Its western face holds most of the routes. During warm summer times, this area is popular with non-climbers, but then the rock is slippery. A nice traverse exists for the slab aficionados. There is little pro, so these lines are typically top-roped or bouldered. Long slings or ropes are useful for toproping. Nuts, hexes, and old bolts are useful for anchors. There is even a separate listing for this rock (scroll down) on the New England Bouldering Site.
L->R:
Traverse, 11
A. various short mixed crack/slabs problems B. Waterlogged, 8 C. Waterproof, 8 D. C Shell, 7 E. Sea Urchin, 7 F. Waver, 7
G. Down to the Seas, 5 H. The Deep Six, 9 I. Full Fathom Five, 10+ J. Jaws II, 11 K. Jaws, 10 or V1 photo (scroll down) L. Shark Bait, 8 or V0 photo (scroll down) M. Watery, 8 N. Dark Hole, 10 O. Seclusion, 7 P. The Clammer, 9 Q. Unknown, 9 R. Lobsta ‘N Steamas, 7+
Beach Buttress – can get wet at high tide S-V. 4 lines 5.6-5.9
Getting There
To find this rock, go N of Boston on Hwy 3, go E on Route 128, go to exit 14, go S, go R on Route 127/Western Ave., park nearby. Parking fees may apply. Free parking may be found further from the park.
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