BETA PHOTO: Tennessee on the left, Double Overhead Cam on the ...
Description
A face and flake climb with a (formerly) Tennessee-shaped flake near its top. A bit runout at the top if you choose to lead it. Rated 5.7 in the 1970s, the loss of a key part of the Tennessee flake since that time has resulted in a change in grade to a current consensus of 5.9 to 5.11, depending upon your reach. To most folks, the crux of this route will seem like pretty solid 5.10, with small crimpy handholds, delicate, balancy footwork, and a long reach to more reassuring holds near the top of the route.
Tennessee Flake, much easier B4 "the flake" took a ride. It has at least 2 variations. 1st var, from the pedestal climb left on an arching ripple (5.10 or so). There is another variation that works to the right (just a bit) to surmount the pedestal, it's very delicate.
Solar Flare, 5.11b, is also a variation off the main route 1/3 the way up. A left-arching crack leads to a vertical seam. With 2 buckets and 2 cruxes on the climb, you'll be happy to have strong fingers and a cool day, as warm weather makes all the routes at Rose greasy, especially this one.
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