BETA PHOTO: The sign at the turnoff to the Rose Ledge Foot Tra...
Description
Rose Ledge consists of a series of small cliffs on the east side of the Connecticut River Valley, in very north central Massachusetts. Rose Ledge is principally a toprope area because the cliffs are quite short - not much more than 50 feet high, at most. Many of the routes can be led using a trad rack if you're so inclined, and there are a large number of routes with very moderate grades, which makes it a great place to learn how to lead with trad gear. There are no sport routes at Rose, due to the traditional ethic that is the norm at this crag. What Rose Ledge lacks in size, it makes up for in quality. It's absolutely worth a visit if you're in the area.
Rose Ledge is located on Northfield Mountain. Northfield Mountain is owned and operated by Northeast Utilities (NU). NU has a hydroelectric reservoir at the top of Northfield Mountain, and you'll see related electrical infrastructure - overhead power lines, an electrical substation near the NU Visitor Center, etc. - on your approach to Rose Ledge. NU hosts summer outdoor programs and a winter cross-country ski area on the mountain, and Northfield Mountain's trails are popular with hikers and mountain bikers. A number of schools, colleges and universities in the area teach introductory rock climbing at Rose Ledge, and climbers regularly visit Rose from at least as far away as Boston.
The rock at Rose Ledge is horizontally stratified gneiss. The rock is pretty solid, and Rose Ledge is home to routes that range from 5.3 or so up through 5.13. There are a number of really popular routes at Rose. These routes date to at least the early 1970s, when Rose Ledge was frequented by Dave Rikert, and then Al DeMaria of Vulgarian fame and Al's students and instructors from his outdoors and rock climbing programs at the nearby Northfield Mount Hermon School (NMH). These routes -- including Fist Fight, Tennessee, Double Overhead Cam, Leave it to Beaver, Rikert's Corner, and Ben's Boot -- have been given "Also Kown As" ("aka") names on this website that Al and company used in the mid-1970's. The principal names given in this guide for these routes are the names that have been commonly used since that time.
A note on climbing advocacy and access issues at Rose Ledge:The Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition has done a lot of good work to improve and maintain access and trails to Rose Ledge; to maintain a good relationship between the climbing community and NU; and to mediate conflicts between climbers and the folks who own property on Poplar Mountain Road, which is home to a popular but very small parking lot that is used by climbers. The relationships that the WMCC has developed with NU and the related Northfield Mountain Recreation and Environmental Center and local climbers and property owners have played crucial roles in keeping Rose Ledge open and accessible to the climbing community. Please see the WMCC website for current information on access and relations with NU and local property owners before you visit Rose Ledge. Please follow WMCC's advice on any and all local issues regarding bolting (don't do it) and access to climbing at Rose Ledge, and respect any and all rules posted regarding climbing or access to Rose Ledge. That's the best way to assure that the climbing community continues to enjoy access to this beautiful crag.
Getting There
Driving Directions: (From the Northeast Utilities website)
Northfield Mountain is located on Route 63, two miles north of Route 2, or five miles south of Route 10, in Northfield, Massachusetts.
TRAVELING NORTH ON I-91: Travel Route 91 North to Exit 27. Travel Route 2 East for eight miles. Turn left onto Route 63 North. Travel two miles. Northfield Mountain is on the right.
TRAVELING SOUTH ON I-91: Travel Route 91 South to Exit 28. Turn left onto Route 10 North for five miles (heading toward Northfield). Turn right onto Route 63 South for five miles. Northfield Mountain is on the left.
TRAVELING FROM THE EAST: Take Route 2 West. Approximately 6.5 miles after the Erving Paper Mill, take a right onto Route 63 North. Follow Route 63 for 2 miles. Northfield Mountain is on the right.
TRAVELING FROM THE WEST: Take Route 2 East to Greenfield. Travel on Route 2 East/Route 91 north, getting off at Exit 27. Continue on Route 2 East for approximately 8 miles to Route 63 North. Turn left onto Route 63 North. Northfield Mountain is 2 miles up on the right.
Parking: Northfield Mountain has a Visitor Center, which is the most spacious option for parking. There is also a small parking area on private property on Poplar Mountain Road. Poplar Mountain Road is the first street on the east side of Route 63, south of Northfield Mountain. The Poplar Mountain Road parking area is about 1/4 mile up Poplar Mountain Road, on the left, across the street from an obvious private garage. This lot is private property and the owners have been gracious enough to allow cars to park here for years, so please be considerate. As of Summer 2007, there is a $3 dollar fee for parking at the Poplar Mountain Road lot that should be placed in the box provided at the top of the lot, beside the road.
An important note about the Poplar Mountain Road parking lot: The Poplar Mountain Road lot has been the focus of some serious conflicts with local property owners in the past, as there has never been enough parking off of the road at that location to accommodate all of the climbers who would like to park there. Please park at the Northfield Mountain Visitor's Center if the Poplar Mountain Road lot is full. Don't park on the shoulder of Poplar Mountain Road, and don't block the dirt road at the top of Poplar Mountain Road. Laziness or impatience with the short approach to Rose Ledge - even the somewhat longer approach from the NU Visitor Center - are not acceptable excuses for creating or exacerbating conflicts between the climbing community and the folks who live or work on Poplar Mountain Road. See the Rose Ledge page on the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition website for information on current access issues at the Poplar Mountain Road parking lot.
Approaching from the NU Visitor Center parking lot: Walk south on the Jug End trail (a ski trail in winter), beneath high tensio power lines, until you reach the Rock Oak Ramble trail on the left. Rock Oak Ramble is a well maintained foot trail - a ski trail in winter - that climbs steadily up the mountain. Take the second right onto the Rose Ledge Foot Trail just before the main trail trends somewhat steeply uphill toward Yellowjacket Pass. This intersection is marked, as of Summer 2007, with a sign that points out both the way to Yellowjacket Pass, and the turn onto Rose Ledge Foot Trail. Rose Ledge will begin to appear through the woods on the left side of the trail, initially as low, somewhat rambling outcrops, and then as increasingly taller cliffs, as you continue to walk up the trail.
Approaching from the Poplar Mountain Road parking lot: Walk up the hill to the end of the paved road, and then up a trail that angles somewhat left into the woods. Cross the Jug End Trail at a high tension power line and walk up Rock Oak Ramble, approaching Rose Ledge as for the approach from the NU Visitor Center. Approach time: About 20 minutes. The property owner at the end of Poplar Mountain Road currently (as of early 2006) owns and uses the top end of the road so please do not leave your gear where it blocks access to their property.
Additional tips on the approach to Rose Ledge: Click the "Topo Map" link at the top of this page, and you'll see "Rose Ledge" identified in the bottom right hand corner of the topo, as well as map features that outline the NU Visitor Center parking lot, the Poplar Mountain Road parking lot, and the trails that lead to the crag. The "Aerial Photo" link at the top of this page also shows some good information on the trails that lead to Rose.
Rose Ledge
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
