This smaller area is probably my favorite in the greater Boston area. One challenge is determining who actually owns the land. Nonetheless, it hosts a couple handfuls of longer (for the Boston area) climbs with some lead potential on beautiful, red granite.
Many climbs here can be lead. For top-roping, you will need long slings for your anchors.
Stone Hedge Boulder A. Orange Peel, 11- B. Little Beaver, 10 C. Common Sense, 11+ D. East Feet, 9/10
L->R: South End E. Chimney, 6 F. Excuse Me, 6 G. High Me, 7 H. Steps, 5 I. Swayback, 9+ J1. Zits, 7 J2. Morning Glory, 8+
Blank section
North End K. Steps Direct, 12 L. No Steps, 12 M or O1. Black Streak, 11 N or O2. Andromeda, 11- O3. Zipper, 5 nice shot or middle row, 3rd shot O4. Zipper Variation, 8+ P. Velcro, 11 Q1. Laughing Gull, 11 Q2. Broken Ankle, 11+ R. Ray's Picture, 10- S. Toe Jams, 5 T. Midnight Train, 10 U. No Bolt, 11 V. Rip Van Winkle, 10 W. No Name, 11
Pink Floyd Wall Dark Side of the Moon, ? Floyd (multiple problems), ? Floyd Corner, ?
Masters Wall A. The Vatican, ? B. Iron Fist, ? C. Snag Bag, ?
Apparently, not too far away are Down Under, Lost Boulder, Mt Ann, Oz, & Plateau Boulder.
Getting There
This area lies north of Boston and is further than an easy bike ride. A car is useful. Go to Gloucester from Boston on US Hwy 1 to Hwy 128, go W on Hwy 128, go briefly W on Hwy 133. You may be able to park next to a field or along this stretch on W side of 133. Hike W 0.4 mile along Hwy 128 to a No Parking sign, head N through forest an eighth of a mile to the cliff. No Parking laws are enforced.
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