A nice view of the entrance boulder. Unknown mantl...
Description
This smaller area is probably my favorite in the greater Boston area. One challenge is determining who actually owns the land. Nonetheless, it hosts a couple handfuls of longer (for the Boston area) climbs with some lead potential on beautiful, red granite.
Many climbs here can be lead. For top-roping, you will need long slings for your anchors.
Stone Hedge Boulder A. Orange Peel, V3 or 11- B. Little Beaver, 10 C. Common Sense, 11+ D. East Feet, 9/10
L->R: South End E. Chimney, 6 F. Excuse Me, 6 G. High Me, 7 H. Steps, 5 I. Swayback, 9+ J1. Zits, 7 J2. Morning Glory, 8+
Blank section
North End K. Steps Direct, 12 L. No Steps, 12 M or O1. Black Streak, 11 N or O2. Andromeda, 11- O3. Zipper, 5 nice shot or middle row, 3rd shot O4. Zipper Variation, 8+ P. Velcro, 11 Q1. Laughing Gull, 11 Q2. Broken Ankle, 11+ R. Ray's Picture, 10- S. Toe Jams, 5 T. Midnight Train, 10 U. No Bolt, 11 V. Rip Van Winkle, 10 W. No Name, 11
Pink Floyd Wall Dark Side of the Moon, 10-, 1p 35'. Floyd (multiple problems), ? Floyd Corner, ?
Masters Wall A. The Vatican, ? B. Iron Fist, ? C. Snag Bag, ?
Apparently, not too far away are Down Under, Lost Boulder, Mt Ann, Oz, & Plateau Boulder.
Getting There
This area lies north of Boston and is further than an easy bike ride. A car is useful. Go to Gloucester from Boston on US Hwy 1 to Hwy 128, go W on Hwy 128, go briefly W on Hwy 133. You may be able to park next to a field or along this stretch on W side of 133. Hike W 0.4 mile along Hwy 128 to a No Parking sign, head N through forest an eighth of a mile to the cliff. No Parking laws are enforced.
This is one of the finer routes here. It ascends an obvious crack that is typically laybacked. It just begs to be climbed. The crux is mid-height where it jogs left. Continue up. Enjoy. One of the nicest short routes in New England, IMHO....[more]Browse More Classics in MA
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