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Another Unnamed Face Problem 
Right Arete, The 
Unnamed Face Problem 

Unnamed Face Problem 

V3

   

FA: [unknown]
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V3 [details]
Length: 12 feet
Season: Cool temps help a lot
Views: 106 page views

Submitted By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008


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Description 

I first found this problem on one of the hottest days of the summer. I had rock shoes with me but no pad. I analyzed the face and its features, judging it hard but climbable. I palpated the starting holds and concluded that today was too hot and humid to consider attempting it padless. I decided to come back when it was cooler.
I finally returned on Christmas Day and sent this excellent thin face climbing problem after a dozen tries or so.
The problem consists of steep thin face climbing and a committing mantle topout. For holds you have edges that are sort of non-edges. More like faint bulbs of granite texture. Brute strength is unwelcome here. Delicacy and precision are the name of the game. Cryptic sequencing is also a barrier to the send, and I get the impression everyone who climbs this problem will employ slightly different moves.


Protection 

You'll want a pad. Not necessarily highball, but blowing the mantle topout would be painful.



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By Derek Sullivan
From: Beverly, MA
Sep 17, 2009

Really awesome line. Typical North Shore sandbagging....this problem is considerably harder than V3.

By Bjorn
From: Golden, Colorado
Nov 10, 2009

Sorry. Felt like the crux of a 5.11+ delicate face climb to me. V4 wouldn't be unreasonable I suppose.