easy bouldering on one of the many opprtunities al...
Description
Large, multiple-outcrop, gneiss crag in Erving, MA, close to Route 2. Somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality, and enjoyable. Routes are trad, bolted, mixed, and top-rope-able. Grades range from 5.4 to 5.14b. Below and all along the crag, there is an extensive boulder field below with many enjoyable and challenging problems, from V0- to V12/V13.
Getting There
The crag is right off Route 2 in Erving. From Rte 2 either East or west, look for Holmes Street (heading west, it's on the right, heading east, on the left). Drive up Holmes street to Wells Street, take Wells to the end of the pavement, and turn right onto Cross St. The current Farley parking area is right there, literally in someone's front yard, identified by a large sign (with "Farley Ledge Parking" and various notices attached) and a series of posts stuck into the ground defining the parking area, and with a smaller sign attached to one post reading "8 Car Limit". As the sign reads, there is only room for 8 cars. A log-construction house abutts to the right of the parking area.
Expect a 20+ minute hike from the parking lot. The Farley trailhead is on the other side of the Log house from the parking lot, near a waist-high boulder, and with a square post at the trail head with the letters "M-M" painted on it in white. Follow this trail thru the woods (about 1/5th-1/4 mile) until you come to an obvious intersection at the cascades to the nearby stream, surrounding a large, angular boulder. The M-M trail continues off to the right over a wooden bridge, and the Farley trail continues into the woods ahead, across the dirt road heading left, and identified by a metal sign with the words "Farley Ledge" and a left-pointing arrow cut right into the metal.
Continue to follow this trail into the boulder field, and eventually you will see the crag appearing thru the trees on your right. Various small rockpiles/cairns identify trails heading up to the crag face.
To ensure continued access to Farley, respect for the landowners who have allowed access thru their properties is paramount. Please be respectful of their yards and homes when visiting Farley. LNT.
Farley Ledge
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