Farley Ledge

Private Property with limited allowed access. Do NOT add routes here. MORE INFO >>> The climbing is on private land the landowner (not the local climbers) is requesting that climbers do not publish information on the routes at Farley Ledge. The Western Mass Climbers Coalition folks are trying to help assure that the landowner's wishes are respected, and users are requested NOT to post route information on Mountain Project. Since Farley is all on private land, the owners have the ability to take access away at any time if they feel that overcrowding is happening. And they are sensitive to this overcrowding and watching it. In order to protect the access that we do have at Farley, we are taking down route information should be taken down in order to respect the landowner's wishes. The WMCC is working on a longer-term solution for the area, and will make information more readily available so that folks understand the issues and don't feel that access is being restricted simply to keep the area sacred to the locals. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Easy bouldering on one of the many opprtunities al...

Description 

Large, multiple-outcrop, gneiss crag in Erving, MA, close to Route 2. Somewhat secluded, not especially popular, though the rock and climbing are quality, and enjoyable. Routes are trad, bolted, mixed, and top-rope-able. Grades range from 5.4 to 5.14b. Below and all along the crag, there is an extensive boulder field below with many enjoyable and challenging problems, from V0- to V12/V13.

Getting There 

The crag is right off Route 2 in Erving. From Rte 2 either East or west, look for Holmes Street (heading west, it's on the right, heading east, on the left). Drive up Holmes street to Wells Street, take Wells to the end of the pavement, and turn right onto Cross St. The current Farley parking area is right there, literally in someone's front yard, identified by a large sign (with "Farley Ledge Parking" and various notices attached) and a series of posts stuck into the ground defining the parking area, and with a smaller sign attached to one post reading "8 Car Limit". As the sign reads, there is only room for 8 cars. A log-construction house abutts to the right of the parking area.

Expect a 20+ minute hike from the parking lot. The Farley trailhead is on the other side of the Log house from the parking lot, near a waist-high boulder, and with a square post at the trail head with the letters "M-M" painted on it in white. Follow this trail thru the woods (about 1/5th-1/4 mile) until you come to an obvious intersection at the cascades to the nearby stream, surrounding a large, angular boulder. The M-M trail continues off to the right over a wooden bridge, and the Farley trail continues into the woods ahead, across the dirt road heading left, and identified by a metal sign with the words "Farley Ledge" and a left-pointing arrow cut right into the metal.

Continue to follow this trail into the boulder field, and eventually you will see the crag appearing thru the trees on your right. Various small rockpiles/cairns identify trails heading up to the crag face.

To ensure continued access to Farley, respect for the landowners who have allowed access thru their properties is paramount. Please be respectful of their yards and homes when visiting Farley. LNT.

Photos of Farley Ledge Slideshow

Add Photo

Leading an airy 5.5 on the right hand wall of the ...	Robbovius leading a 5.6 fissured dihedral in the B...	Top roping a scary, airy 5.12 line on the Bat Cave...
A tall (70+ feet) fissured dihedral on the left ha...	Leading up the bolted 5.9- Air Blast line, on the ...	Farley Trail Sign at the cascades.
BETA PHOTO: Farley Parking...be considerate of the landowners!	Patrick and I getting ready for another great day ...