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Mass Wasting 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Lynn Ross, 1990
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 3, 2012
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Description 

Mass Wasting takes the obvious overhanging headwall about 60 feet up between Ionic Bonding to the left and Red Light District to the right. Fourth or barely fifth class up easy rock (actually the first part of the Alpenbock Route) to the overhanging headwall, then punch it past six bolts via somewhat cryptic but great climbing with superb position. Almost as good as Cross Town, particularly if the fourth class section is overlooked.

The Ruckmans recommend climbing the overhanging headwall from a belay at the sixth bolt of Ionic Bonding (thereby making a two-pitch climb), but the benefit of having the belay closer to the leader seemed outweighed by the hassle.


Location 

Betwixt Ionic and Red Light.


Protection 

Draws, mabye gear if spooked by the approach section. Lower from anchors; single rope is fine.



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By bsmoot
Sep 5, 2012

The top two anchor bolts require long slings