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This route is left of First Overhang on the prow/corner as far back in the corner as a problem could get. The way I've seen it done is getting a somewhat high left hand edge that's not too bad, but certainly not positive, and pulling up utilizing a shallow pocket for the right to a lockoff and reach with the right real high on the bulge/face. From here the problem follows better holds once you find 'em to the top.
I myself have not yet done this problem, so my assessment of the difficulty is only secondhand. Let's just say I hear it's hard. Perhaps someone (Chip Phillips?) knows when Christian Griffith first did this problem.
There's a large boulder just below this one that could provide for a painful encounter if one were to fall. Proceed with caution.
|Comments on Masochism Tango
|By Chip Phillips|
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 5, 2003
Another nice contribution Adam. This problem is a little sharp for some. That said, if the sidewall landing wasn't there, I suspect it would be as popular as First Overhang and Just Right.
According to Pat Ament's High Over Boulder, the FA was by Jim Holloway in the mid to late 1970s or Skip Guerin in the early 1980s. Back then ... it was easier, but similar to First Overhang, a crucial handhold broke off making it harder.
As for the actual grade, Benningfield called it V6 ... I've got it as V7 in the yet-to-be-published Flagstaff Mountain Bouldering Map & Guide. Whatever ... grades schmades.
|By Adam Hicks`|
Dec 15, 2003
Thanks for the correction on the FA, Chip. I agree from what I've seen that it's probably more correct at V7. Also, a good reason I've yet to spend time on it is, in fact, the boulder munching your behind.