Problem: Knowing is Half the Battle (tenative V3) ...
Small wall on the left side of the road about half way to the summit of Mary's peak. The rock is poor and small rockfall is common but it is really close to Corvallis if you want to get on real rock for the afternoon.
There are two toprope routes, each with two anchor bolts at the top. One of the bolts is old and the other looks like it has been replaced on each route.
Hwy 20 to 34 after Philomath. Take a right on Mary's peak road for a few miles until you see a slanted rock on the left side of the road. Enter the trees on the left side of the rock to find a faint trial to the top.
It is a shame...all the bolts on top of the road cut wall have been removed, destroyed or epoxied over. And recently, someone pounded pitons in the wall and, in the process, caused several large chunks to fall. They really ruined about three lines of top roping that we really liked.
Still trying to determine whether the bolts on top of the band were vandalized/removed by Brent O'Neil, the person who installed them, or another party. In either event trees a couple feet back from the lumps top works great for top-roping.
If the pitons are truly controversial to you - go take em.
I am in contact with the local Ranger in charge of Marys Peak and he has no problem with em. Other climbers are leading routes where pitons don't disappear so.... Pitons are as worthless in that crap rock as bolts would be. All climbing on these roadcuts pail in comparison to the quality of climbing found at the Pillars and Druid Stones, so most would find this point quite irrelevant.
Hmm... I just looked and saw the bolts were gone too! Bummer, frustrating. We were just getting some use on these routes and cleaning them up.. No idea what happened. I couldn't see much b/c it was all under snow when i was up there to check on the bolts..
Just visited the slab for the first time today. It's about 2.6 miles after you turn off highway 34. I Didn't get to climb but it seems like a good place to practice friction footwork. I'll be back with a belayer soon!
Just got out here today, put pictures up. Two routes are bolted on the road cut and ready to be lead by anyone. It was cold but it was dry! Could use a good cleaning. Still fun for the short drive, and the sunshine we had today! I recomend going and wouldn't mind hitting it up again. Keep the routes coming. Hoping to establish more out there!
Just moved to area and find this place. Look greats! Could no find boulders? Who is main developer? Would like to add to many good routes and must think it's OK with him or her to add to work. Much is possible more! Keep up greats work! I climb much before moving to here US. Other routes local to climb?(Sorry for not good English)
Went out on 8/19, there are four bolted routes with rings at the top (they are on the face but may be reachable for setting up top rope from above). The rock was actually fairly solid - at least nothing big was coming off. Pretty easy routes as mentioned - maybe a good place to teach how to lead or clean. We didn't see the boulders anywhere close, I'm not really sure where those are. Be prepared for traffic because you are belaying from just a few feet off the road (wasn't an issue though). Definitely want to find some other climbing areas around Corvallis (Alsea Wall?) - if anyone is insterested in exploring PM me.
A week ago was up on Marys - 6 hangers were stolen from the lowest portions of owl slab. No hangers were taken from pillars. The situation has been rectified.
If you have any information on the Hanger Thief - make it known! Let me know, I'll get into contact with users of the area, Ranger Bob and our bolting committee full of patron-saints. Most are in consensus that if we care about out little "after-work" crag on marys it will take communication to diffuse any future vandalism to the routes there
btw I posted new maps by request of multiple Druids wanting more resources for the expanding numbers of boulderers on the mtn. If you send new lines - get me a name, get me a grade!
Another season at the Druids kicking off in full gear! Last month Snakecharmer saw a send from a stand start! V4 **** !!!!! July saw two new problems on Pistol Grip! - Pistol Whipped V3 and Tech Nine V3/4 courtesy of the visiting Umpqua Holdings and Sending Company.
Over the last winter a 5th pillar showed up!?!? Its below magical mystery pillar and looks to be high quality under some moss? Be careful if you getting to cleaning it before me :)
if your interested in marys roped or bouldering please message me.