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Mary's Bust Area

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Golden Hall 
Mary's Bust - left buttress 
Mary's Bust - main buttress 
Moonlight Rock 
Sugar Cube, The 
Tick Rock 

Mary's Bust Area 


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Page Views: 86,458
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: An overview of the area, showing Mary's Bust, its ...

Description 

Construction Zone

This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.

The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.

In this area, we'll include a number of crags that are accessed from the same parking area. Included are: Golden Hall (above and on the right side of Mary's Bust - left buttress), Mary's Bust - left buttress, Mary's Bust - main buttress, Tick Rock (to the left), Sugar Cube (to the right & below Mary's Bust), Moonlight Rock (above Mary's Bust - left buttress)....

Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here.

Please email with any suggestions for improvement.


Getting There 

From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.

From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.


47 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',7],['5.10',12],['5.11',14],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mary's Bust Area:
Arachnophobia   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Tick Rock
Dancing in the Moonlight   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 135'   Moonlight Rock
Nervous Tic   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   Tick Rock
Dynamite   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Morning Town   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Golden Hall
The Broadmoor   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 6 pitches, 450'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Maternal Damnation   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 120'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Disneyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Beak   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
The Brown Palace   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 6 pitches, 450'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Mary's Tricks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Wingardium Leviosa   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Just in Time   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Violet Blue   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 220'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Lie Detector   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Devil's Backbone   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 280'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
Sympathy for the Devil   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
Match-Up Left   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Sugar Cube
The Match-Up   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Sugar Cube
Proud Mary   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Browse More Classics in Mary's Bust Area

Featured Route For Mary's Bust Area
Lie Detector is Route C in this topo, which shows the routes on the left side of Mary's Bust.

Lie Detector 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Mary's Bust - main buttress
Lie Detector is a 3-pitch route (with an option to go to the top) that lies between Proud Mary and Fool Me Twice.1. 75 feet, 5.10a, bolted. Do the first pitch of Deceiver. Another option begins with The Brown Palace but finishes on the upper half of Deceiver (this is the quick and easy way to reach the new pitches, 5.7).2. 75 feet, 5.11c, 8 bolts. Step left and follow a prominent right-facing flake to a series of steep overlaps. The bulging section features powerful underclings and l...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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Photos of Mary's Bust Area Slideshow Add Photo
US Pro Cycling Tour.  Another picture of the chase.  Two teams looked like they were pushing really hard.
US Pro Cycling Tour. Another picture of the chase...
US Pro Cycling Tour from the top of the Brown Palace.  This is the main peloton.  They were 2 minutes behind a breakaway of 13 riders.  We still don't know if the break stayed away.  Excellent bird's-eye view of the race.
US Pro Cycling Tour from the top of the Brown Pala...
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