This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.
The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.
Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here.
Please email with any suggestions for improvement.
From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.
From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.
Lie Detector is a 3-pitch route (with an option to go to the top) that lies between Proud Mary and Fool Me Twice.1. 75 feet, 5.10a, bolted. Do the first pitch of Deceiver. Another option begins with The Brown Palace but finishes on the upper half of Deceiver (this is the quick and easy way to reach the new pitches, 5.7).2. 75 feet, 5.11c, 8 bolts. Step left and follow a prominent right-facing flake to a series of steep overlaps. The bulging section features powerful underclings and l...[more]Browse More Classics in CO