Mary's Bust Area Rock Climbing
US Pro Cycling Tour from the top of the Brown Pala...
This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.
The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.
In this area, we'll include a number of crags that are accessed from the same parking area. Included are: Golden Hall
(above and on the right side of Mary's Bust - left buttress), Mary's Bust - left buttress
, Mary's Bust - main buttress
, Tick Rock
(to the left), Sugar Cube
(to the right & below Mary's Bust), Moonlight Rock
(above Mary's Bust - left buttress)....
Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here. Please email with any suggestions for improvement.
From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34 from Mall Road. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.
From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
48 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mary's Bust Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mary's Bust Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mary's Bust Area:
Featured Route For Mary's Bust Area
Violet Blue 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CO
: Estes Park Valley
: ... : Mary's Bust - main buttress
Violet Blue runs up an old aid line on the west face of Mary's Bust just adjacent to the gully that separates the two main crags. The route was installed ground up, solo, and on the lead using hooks and some other related tricks. The original aid start was left alone and may provide a difficult and protectable alternate start. VB consists of three pitches and stops well short of the top of the crag. Rock above the final belay looked unpleasant but could certainly be led safely to the prominent l...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
US Pro Cycling Tour. Another picture of the chase...
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the area, showing Mary's Bust, its ...