This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.
The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.
Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here.
Please email with any suggestions for improvement.
From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.
From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.
Sympathy for the Devil is a brilliant variant finish to The Devil's Backbone. It may be the best pitch at Mary's Bust at present.Climb the first two pitches of The Devil's Backbone (both 5.11a), but skip the last bolt at the end of the 2nd pitch and head right to a great ledge on the edge of the buttress with a hidden two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3: Start up the arete, and move onto the overhanging wall on the right. After clipping the 4th bolt (awesome 5.12a to here), yo...[more]Browse More Classics in CO