Mary's Bust Area Rock Climbing
US Pro Cycling Tour from the top of the Brown Pala...
This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.
The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.
In this area, we'll include a number of crags that are accessed from the same parking area. Included are: Golden Hall
(above and on the right side of Mary's Bust - left buttress), Mary's Bust - left buttress
, Mary's Bust - main buttress
, Tick Rock
(to the left), Sugar Cube
(to the right & below Mary's Bust), Moonlight Rock
(above Mary's Bust - left buttress)....
Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here. Please email with any suggestions for improvement.
From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34 from Mall Road. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.
From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.
Weather station 6.4 miles from here
48 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mary's Bust Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mary's Bust Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mary's Bust Area:
Featured Route For Mary's Bust Area
Rain on the Mountain 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c CO
: Estes Park Valley
: ... : Golden Hall
Rain on the Mountain climbs the beautiful, vertical face on the right side of The Golden Hall (see topo) with immaculate stone. Once you get to the 2nd bolt, it doesn't let up until the very top.Climb an easy ramp up and right to reach the first of 9 bolts (yes, you may use the corner to the right to full advantage in order to establish yourself on the wall). The first half is about 5.12- along a thin seam to good holds midway up the wall; the 2nd half is the business.Be...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
US Pro Cycling Tour. Another picture of the chase...
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the area, showing Mary's Bust, its ...