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Mary's Bust Area

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Golden Hall 
Mary's Bust - left buttress 
Mary's Bust - main buttress 
Moonlight Rock 
Sugar Cube, The 
Tick Rock 

Mary's Bust Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.41555, -105.3761 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,328
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2010  with updates from sandeld
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US Pro Cycling Tour from the top of the Brown Pala...

Description 

Construction Zone

This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.

The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.

In this area, we'll include a number of crags that are accessed from the same parking area. Included are: Golden Hall (above and on the right side of Mary's Bust - left buttress), Mary's Bust - left buttress, Mary's Bust - main buttress, Tick Rock (to the left), Sugar Cube (to the right & below Mary's Bust), Moonlight Rock (above Mary's Bust - left buttress)....

Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here.

Please email with any suggestions for improvement.

Getting There 

From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34 from Mall Road. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.

From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

48 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',21],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',7],['5.10',12],['5.11',14],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mary's Bust Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mary's Bust Area:
Arachnophobia   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Tick Rock
Dancing in the Moonlight   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 135'   Moonlight Rock
PTSD   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   Tick Rock
Nervous Tic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   Tick Rock
Deceiver   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Tick Fever   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Tick Rock
Dynamite   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Broadmoor   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 6 pitches, 450'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Maternal Damnation   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 120'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Disneyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Ixodes   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Tick Rock
The Brown Palace   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 6 pitches, 450'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Mary's Tricks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Wingardium Leviosa   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Stuck In Time   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Just in Time   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Violet Blue   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 220'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Devil's Backbone   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 280'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
Sympathy for the Devil   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
Proud Mary   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mary's Bust Area

Featured Route For Mary's Bust Area
Rock Climbing Photo: John Langston follows the 3rd pitch.

The Brown Palace 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Brown Palace runs up the entire length of the southeast face of Mary's Bust, beginning on the left corner at Proud Mary, and traversing right to the base of a gorgeous, 4-ft wide brown dike. The dike continues up much of the wall, receding into the fabric of the cliff at times, but prominent at other locations -- the route strives to follow the dike.Denver denizens know the Brown Palace as the hotel in downtown Denver built by Henry Cordes Brown (construction began in 1888@SEMI...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Mary's Bust Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: US Pro Cycling Tour.  Another picture of the chase...
US Pro Cycling Tour. Another picture of the chase...
Rock Climbing Photo: An overview of the area, showing Mary's Bust, its ...
BETA PHOTO: An overview of the area, showing Mary's Bust, its ...

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