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Mary's Bust Area

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Golden Hall 
Mary's Bust - left buttress 
Mary's Bust - main buttress 
Moonlight Rock 
Sugar Cube, The 
Tick Rock 

Mary's Bust Area  


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Location: 40.41555, -105.3761 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 90,689
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: An overview of the area, showing Mary's Bust, its ...

Description 

Construction Zone

This is an organizational entry to help with restructuring this section of the Big Thompson Canyon. It was suggested by one of the BTC developers.

The Mary's Bust area provides Big Thompson climbers with a wealth of different opportunities for climbs ranging from 1 to 6 pitches, trad climbs to sport climbs, slabs to overhangs, and from 5.6 to 13-. The rock is granitic with significant quartz intrusions and pockets of mica which can may holds flex. The rock is still shedding here. Consider helmets. The approaches are brief. Some climbers have remarked that this is Lumpy without the approach. The sun is often warm here, although you can chase the shade a bit here.

In this area, we'll include a number of crags that are accessed from the same parking area. Included are: Golden Hall (above and on the right side of Mary's Bust - left buttress), Mary's Bust - left buttress, Mary's Bust - main buttress, Tick Rock (to the left), Sugar Cube (to the right & below Mary's Bust), Moonlight Rock (above Mary's Bust - left buttress)....

Incidentally, there is nice opportunity to rinse off or wash down after a pleasant day out on the rock here.

Please email with any suggestions for improvement.

Getting There 

From Estes Park, drive ~7.7 miles east on US 34. This decent-sized rock, Mary's Bust, will loom above on the north side of the road. There are pullouts both on the north and south of the road. There is a cairn marking the typical approach towards the east end of the cliff.

From the east, it lies ~9.4 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube (BST) in the narrows.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

47 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',7],['5.10',12],['5.11',14],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mary's Bust Area:
Arachnophobia   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Tick Rock
Dancing in the Moonlight   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 135'   Moonlight Rock
Nervous Tic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   Tick Rock
Dynamite   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Morning Town   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Golden Hall
The Broadmoor   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 6 pitches, 450'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Maternal Damnation   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 120'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Disneyland   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 170'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Beak   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
The Brown Palace   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 6 pitches, 450'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Mary's Tricks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Wingardium Leviosa   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Just in Time   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
The Devil's Backbone   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 280'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
Violet Blue   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 220'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Lie Detector   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Sympathy for the Devil   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Mary's Bust - left buttress
Match-Up Left   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Sugar Cube
The Match-Up   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Sugar Cube
Proud Mary   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   Mary's Bust - main buttress
Browse More Classics in Mary's Bust Area

Featured Route For Mary's Bust Area
Paul Foster climbs beyond early morning shadows into the long crux section.

Rain on the Mountain 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Golden Hall
Rain on the Mountain climbs the beautiful, vertical face on the right side of The Golden Hall (see topo) with immaculate stone. Once you get to the 2nd bolt, it doesn't let up until the very top.Climb an easy ramp up and right to reach the first of 9 bolts (yes, you may use the corner to the right to full advantage in order to establish yourself on the wall). The first half is about 5.12- along a thin seam to good holds midway up the wall; the 2nd half is the business.Be...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Mary's Bust Area Slideshow Add Photo
US Pro Cycling Tour.  Another picture of the chase.  Two teams looked like they were pushing really hard.
US Pro Cycling Tour. Another picture of the chase...
US Pro Cycling Tour from the top of the Brown Palace.  This is the main peloton.  They were 2 minutes behind a breakaway of 13 riders.  We still don't know if the break stayed away.  Excellent bird's-eye view of the race.
US Pro Cycling Tour from the top of the Brown Pala...

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