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Mary's Bust - left buttress
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beak, The 
Devil's Backbone, The 
Sparky's Cooler 5.7 or 10a 
Sympathy for the Devil 

Mary's Bust - left buttress 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 29, 2010

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: Current routes on Mary's Bust, left buttress.
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Description 

Construction Zone

Thanks for your patience.

This subarea will include the routes to the left of the big gully and below Moonlight Rock. The rock here is up to 400' in height. There is a slightly more traditional and adverture feeling to the climbs on this side of Mary's Bust.


Getting There 

Hike up the main access trail and go left.


L->R: 

A. Unknown, traditional.
B. Unknown, traditional.
C. Unknown, traditional.
D. Unknown, traditional.
E. Unknown, traditional.
F. Unknown, TR.
G. Sparky's Cooler, 7 or 10-, 4p, 310', bolts & gear.
H. The Beak, 11-, 4p, 300', bolts & gear.
I. Devil's Backbone, 11, 3p, 280', bolts & sling. P1 11-.
I1. Sympathy for the Devil, 12-, 1p var to P3 of I.

Above and right (Golden Hall):

A. Diamond Overhang, 10- PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
B. Rain on the Mountain, 13-, 1p, 75', bolts.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mary's Bust - left buttress:
The Beak   5.11a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300 feet   
The Devil's Backbone   5.11c     Sport, 3 pitches, 280 feet   
Sympathy for the Devil   5.12a     Sport, 3 pitches, 250 feet   
Browse More Classics in Mary's Bust - left buttress

Featured Route For Mary's Bust - left buttress
John Langston leading the crux pitch.  This photo doesn't do justice to the fine position of the climb, but it's the best we could get.

Sympathy for the Devil 5.12a  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Mary's Bust - left buttress
Sympathy for the Devil is a brilliant variant finish to The Devil's Backbone. It may be the best pitch at Mary's Bust at present.Climb the first two pitches of The Devil's Backbone (both 5.11a), but skip the last bolt at the end of the 2nd pitch and head right to a great ledge on the edge of the buttress with a hidden two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3: Start up the arete, and move onto the overhanging wall on the right. After clipping the 4th bolt (awesome 5.12a to here), yo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO