BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...
Description
A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.
Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.
Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.
Getting There
Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Patapsco State Park:
The classic route at Ilchester and maybe in all of Maryland. Packs three cruxes in 30 feet of climbing.A burly first move over the roof to a decent rest jug, tricky jams lead to a stance under the rood and the final "Blue Rose" move over the hang to finish. When you finish look at the large welt on the back of your right hand to find the Rose.A proud on-site for any Baltimore climber. This climb has been led, free-soloed, done blindfolded,...[more]Browse More Classics in MD
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