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Patapsco State Park
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Buzzards Rock 
Friction Wall 
Ilchester 

Patapsco State Park 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 200'
Lat, Long: 39.2474, -76.7632 Map
Page Views: 11,504. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrator: Frances Fierst
Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...

Description 

A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.

Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.

Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.


Getting There 

Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Patapsco State Park:
Middle Climb   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Ilchester
Blue Rose   5.8+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Ilchester
Hidden Art   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Friction Wall
The Truth   5.10+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Friction Wall
Midnight Lightning   5.10+     TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Ilchester
Drilled Pockets   5.12     Sport, TR, Chipped, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Friction Wall
Captain Crunch   5.13a     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Ilchester
Browse More Classics in Patapsco State Park

Featured Route For Patapsco State Park
<a href='/v/hidden-art/106499537'>Hidden Art</a> is the thin crack line at the left end of the ledge, and <a href='/v/yodas-vision/106499549'>Yoda's Vision</a> is the face to the left of that.  <br /> <br />The two bolt anchor that is shared by <a href='/v/drilled-pockets/106499492'>Drilled Pockets</a> and the unknown rightmost bolted line, can be seen on the left edge of the photo.

Hidden Art 5.9  MD : Patapsco State Park : Friction Wall
This route and Yoda's Vision both start off the same ledge, which is most easily reached from rappelling in from the top. Find the furthest most point of land at the top and use a high sling on the small tree as a directional.Leave the left end of the ledge via a thin crack in a corner, which changes to pure thin crack up higher.A great find recently unearthed by John Kelbel. Certainly worth the effort to get to, as it is probably the nicest crack line at the cliff.Staying tied in while belaying...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD


Photos of Patapsco State Park Slideshow Add Photo
The Union Dam Tunnel. <br /> <br />A common occurrence while climbing in the Patapsco.

The Union Dam Tunnel.

A common occurrence while c...