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Narrows aka Lover's Leap, The 
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Patapsco State Park 
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Sugarloaf Mountain 
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Maryland  


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Location: 39.3003, -76.6296 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Sep 20, 2007
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Description 

From the Chesapeake Bay to the hills beyond Hagerstown there is climbing to be found in Maryland, although most of the climbing can be found in central Maryland.

Rock State Park, Carderrock, A-Rock, and other various climbing locations are generally small, short but have beautiful setting and fun moves. Finding a local that knows where the classics are is defintely the crux of Maryland climbing.

Indoors gyms are extremely common, generally huge, and well-kept.

Getting There 

Maryland is a state, there are only 50, learn them know them, and even though the East coast states are small we have fierce devotion to our repective home states so don't say "oh! that is one of the small ones over by..." if you want to make friends.

Guidebooks 

Eric Horst's Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia, and Maryland does the best job of getting you from area to area and helping you to find the routes.

Tim Toula's aging Rock and Road does a decent job giving you an idea of what to expect out of Maryland climbing

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

476 Total Routes

['4 Stars',26],['3 Stars',136],['2 Stars',229],['1 Star',50],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',87],['5.7',32],['5.8',53],['5.9',58],['5.10',76],['5.11',25],['5.12',10],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',13],['V2-3',76],['V4-5',30],['V6-7',8],['V8-9',4],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Maryland:
Center Stage and All Alone   A2 PG13     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 80'   Maryland Heights, MD : Train Tunnel Wall
'D' Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 225'   Maryland Heights, MD : Sign Wall
Vertical   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 70'   Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
Sterling's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 45'   Carderock
Jan's Face   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Carderock
Hard Up Direct   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 170'   Maryland Heights, MD : Sign Wall
Blue Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Patapsco State Park : Ilchester
Strawberry Jam   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Rocks State Park : Pinnacle
Butterfly   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Carderock
Breakaway left   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
Breakaway Right   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Rocks State Park : Breakaway Wall
Ounce of Perception   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   Annapolis Rock : Faint's Roof
Bloody Bucket   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Patapsco State Park : Woodstock Rock
Herbie's Horror   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 25'   Carderock
Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
Black Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Annapolis Rock : The South End
Salty Dog Saloon   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr.
Midnight Lightning   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Patapsco State Park : Ilchester
Buckets of Blood Arete   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Carderock
Browse More Classics in Maryland

Featured Route For Maryland
View of the upper dihedral on Salty Dog Saloon fro...

Salty Dog Saloon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr.
Excellent route. Begin 20-25' left of Forearm Furnace, next to the black 3' tall step. Climb up to and around the inverted ramp roof to the left (alternatively, pull the roof directly) (a piece of fixed gear exists on the lip of the overhang at the crux). Climb up and then right to gain the left-facing corner then run to the top where you will find anchors. (Indy)...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Maryland Slideshow Add Photo
Left fork rocks in the Frederick watershed.
Left fork rocks in the Frederick watershed.
Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
North Frederick Watershed - "Proud Roof"
North Frederick Watershed - "Proud Roof"
Maryland
Maryland
North Frederick Watershed
North Frederick Watershed
Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
Frederick Watershed - "Still Life" bould...
North Frederick Watershed - "Gem Arete"
North Frederick Watershed - "Gem Arete"
North Frederick Watershed
North Frederick Watershed

Comments on Maryland Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Mu.
Oct 9, 2007
For a better description of Maryland Climbing check out Indy's Climb Maryland book. Here is the link for amazon.com.
amazon.com/Climb-Maryland-Mark...
It is more thorough than any other guide. Maryland, when you actually go looking has a lot of climbable rock, you just need to get out there and find it.
By John Kelbel
From: Eldersburg, Maryland
Feb 24, 2010
For Rock locations in Patapsco State Park and the west side of Baltimore check out patapscorock.blogspot.com
By Robin Close
From: Columbia, Maryland
Mar 3, 2012
If anyone's interested in checking out videos of Maryland bouldering, I've added a video page to my blog with links to all that I could find, with the exception of a few from areas with questionable access. To access the page, go to robinclose.blogspot.com and click on the "Maryland Bouldering Videos" tab at the top. I also post regularly about any climbing that I do, and have compiled a lot of Northwest Branch bouldering information under the "Northwest Branch" tab. Clicking on the names below the boulder photos will take you to pages with more information about the cliimbs on each.