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Climbing this diverse route is like doing 4, V4 or V5 or possibly harder boulder problems with good to no hands rests in between. Head up a corner (careful of the loose section, of the flake) then out left onto the slab. CRUX #1 Make a couple of moves up then a very thin traverse left across the slab to a ledge that you mantle onto. Stand there and contemplate the arete. CRUX #2 Make thin moves up the arete to a good hold out right then a couple of harder moves to a jug on the left side of the arete. Cruse a ways up the arete to a slabby section below the overhang. Clip the first bolt on the overhang and situate your body to the right of the rope otherwise you will have to work your body around it in the middle of the third crux. CRUX #3 Work up and right across the overhang on some slopey holds to a shelf on the right in a corner and some jugs. Rest here and a look at the lip of the overhang out left and wonder what is in store. Traverse left out the jug rail and clip the bolt, CRUX #4 head up with slopey holds over the lip and with progressively longer moves to a sloping shelf. Mantle up onto the shelf and wonder why the anchor is 3' out of your reach. Make a couple of long moves up just to the right of the bolt line and clip the anchors.
From the top of Good or Evil head up and left along a corner ramp to a bolted belay at the base of Gullatine crack. Mary Poppins follows the bolt line snaking up the perfect orange rock to the left.
Bolts and hook anchors.
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 2, 2008
Because of the wandering nature of this route, DMM revolvers would be nice on the 8th bolt and possibly the 6th. Possibly the best route I've been on at Diablo.
|By Rick Bradshaw|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 10, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
This route was established by Rick Bradshaw, Walt Wehner, Rick Smith, and Josh Smith. Josh nabbed the actual FA.