Mary Jane 5.8
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Jan Brown pulling down on Mary Jane.
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Description Mary Jane is located in the same area as the Jolly Roger and Angel's Crack. The climb is 50 feet of vertical, well sustained 5.7 climbing with the 5.8 crux at the top. Climb up using horizontal cracks and ledges, avoiding the corner to the right. Near the top you will find a ledge to stand on and above it you will see a vertical crack. To finish the climb, reach up with both hands and finger jam in this crack while stepping up with a smear on the smooth rock at knee level. It's a really fun crux if you've got the reach.
To get to the top of Mary Jane, hike along the Devil's Doorway Trail and take the short scenic trail that dips down to the famous Devil's Doorway formation. There is a staircase that passes between two short walls of rock on the east end of this short trail. If you walk down these stairs you will see an outcropping straight ahead and an outcropping to the right (west). Mary Jane faces south off the end of the western outcropping.
To get to the bottom of the climb from here, walk back up the stairs discussed earlier and take a right (east) down the slope through the woods (before you get back to the main Devil's Doorway Trail). This is the gully that sits between the Major Mass and Minor Mass. Hug the rock on your right and pass right (south) through the first "saddle" you see. Go through the saddle and turn right again (west) with the rock still to your right. You are now on the ledge that separates the Upper and Lower bands of the Major Mass. In Swartling's book on diagram 33E, page 141, you are standing somewhere between the words "Access" and "Angel's Traverse".Scramble west about 150 feet until you get to the base of the climb. For reference, you will see some dead brush and a large, flat-topped boulder to your immediate left (to the south of the wall). The climb is just past this boulder.
Protection Standard Rack
BETA PHOTO: Mary Jane is the right south face of this block.
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Hefty run-out.
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Kyle Kompas getting high on mary jane.
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Even though the author clearly says, "avoid use of corner" the beta photo included with the route description defiantly says otherwise. For what it's worth the corner does offer decent footing while cruising up to the crux but will afford the climber nothing worthwhile in the crux. This is, in my opinion, the best route within this small group of climbs. |
By Ryan Strong
From: Franklin, Wisconsin
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.8
| This climb is good but i personally would recommend jolly roger, over this 5.8. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 29, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Jolly Roger is good but if you're looking for the least sandbagged 5.8 in the Park look no further than Chicago. A great lead. |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.8 R
| Chicago? A 5.8 and "least sandbagged in the park"? Are you trying to kill someone Andy?!!?!? Chicago has been described as an early "hero climb". I respectively disagree! Harrumph! |
By Trad Nanny
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 R
| I got run-out on this but a micro cam (that I didn't have) might have fixed that. It's pretty ho-hum until the crux at the top which is a few cool moves with good gear. Bring a blue Master Cam for the very top crux. |
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 14, 2011
| I like the movement all the way up Mary Jane. It has less then obvious hold arrangement in parts... you gotta pull up, set your feet high and then reach around for what works and then you discover holds that are just in the right direction and positive.... just not easily visible. The top move is balancy and a bit insecure but great pro in that little exit crack.
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By Josh Knapp
Aug 21, 2011
rating: 5.8 PG13
| Yeah, a little runout in the beginning. I placed a shitty .3 camalot about 20 feet up for piece of mind. Purely a physiological placement. However the climbing is pretty secure and there is bomber gear above. Most of the climb is in the 5.6 range until the crux at the top, then WHAM things get serious for a couple moves! Great route! |
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