This shady cliff is home to several quality lines including a few moderate routes. The climbing consists of gray slabby rock and steeper orange rock. The classic of the crag is Mary Jane, a 5.11b that climbs a pocketed corner and pulls through a bulge. This cliff is a great destination to escape the Vegas heat, and has a short approach, even by Mt. Charleston standards.
Take S.R. 157 from US-95 all the way past the Mt. Charleston hotel into Kyle Canyon. Follow this road as it winds up the hill until you encounter a sharp left-turning bend in the road. Immediately before this bend, turn right off of the road onto Echo Rd. and continue uphill and follow the signs toward the Mary Jane Falls turn-off. Park on the north side of the lot by the outhouse. The approach to Mary Jane follows the trail up the canyon for about five minutes. On the left (southwest) side of the canyon just above the wash you will see the clean wall of the Mary Jane Crag. Cross the wash, and hike up the short trail/switchbacks to the base of the cliff.
Browse More Classics in Mary Jane Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mary Jane Cliff:
Pine In The Ass 5.10b Sport, 60 feet
Rock Bottom 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch
Mary Jane 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For Mary Jane Cliff
Mary Jane 5.11b NV : Mt. Charleston : Mary Jane Cliff
This is the best route at this crag. FUN climbing below the roof/bulge up the corner lined with pockets, then a sequential sequence leads you up the small crimps at the bulge to the anchors. This top section seems to spoil a lot of onsight attempts......[more] Browse More Classics in NV