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|Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>
...or Fantastic, as one topo indicates, is a beautiful, difficult splitter - fairly well-chalked when I was on it. There is a plaque at the base. Located well right of where the trail hits the wall. You'll pass Left Crack and Middle Crack (short, straight-in splitters), then you'll get to this longer line. It's pretty obvious - you just have to walk a ways.
Climb an easier-than-it-looks start up softer rock for 25 feet, then begin fingerlocking and stacking your way up to the crux: a long reach to a tips slot followed by another long reach to more thin crack. There is a convenient face hold right at this section which you may or may not find useful. Continue up the slightly offset crack, liebacking or stacking, with occasional locks, to the anchors. Sweet route!
Many small cams from tiny to finger stacks. Maybe a thin hands piece or two.
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
sweet crux and pumpy to the chains
Apr 1, 2010
AKA Right crack. Beautiful, black varnished rock at the top.