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Joe on the FA of his route Martyr's Arena.
Scenic views, exposure, mental stamina, and a bold crux. If you're looking for spicy, Bruce Lee, ground up action or head point nirvana, welcome to the arena.
In general, the route climbs directly up with a few slight jogs left and right until reaching the right-angling, mini-ledge post crux where the preferred finish moves right and up. Find a block at head height on the ramp and climb up and slightly left through .10+ terrain. Two suspect micro nuts may ease the jitters but will probably not keep you off the deck. Carefully suss it out.
A few bomber nuts and some chill climbing put you on a right-angling ramp (AKA - leg eater). Dial down the head noise and ballet through the .11- directly above. Sink two bomber cams in a made to order, tight, hand-sized, angling hueco. Feel free to hum a dirge here if you lack a large ape index for the looming crux. Progressively harder moves on small dish like half digit crimps culminate in a balance reach or throw to a right-angling mini-ledge. Place good gear and climb right a bit and up for the final runout.
FA done headpoint style over four days August 2012. All gear placed on lead. Major thanks to Alex Blum, Greg Miller, Rob Kepley, Steve Annecone, and Steve Levin for their support. Your helping hands made a dream come true!
This was formerly known as Northwest Face TR by Richard and Joyce Rossiter 1987.
I can't recall how many walks down West Ridge were spent gawking at this route the last five years. It held such sheer beauty from afar, but I also knew from recent new route forays on the Peanuts formation it probably harbored some nasty lichen and friable crimpers.
Two weekends ago I found myself partnerless due to no fault of my own. I wasn't getting any younger or stronger and past attempts to land a partner for this potential ground-up death route ended in blank stares that unequivocally said no. I thought "heck, let's get on with it and get in the game." Thanks be to God, I head pointed it. After burning through a beefy, welding brush scrubbing it partially clean on the first day, I found myself breaking critical supposed "good" holds a few days later on Mini-traxion. I would have grounded out for certain. It cleaned up wonderfully and has great climbing, tactics, and technique that are signature Eldo.
On Upper Peanuts between Heavy Weather and Sunrider. Approach as for Sunrider. From the start of Sunrider, walk about half way down the exposed ramp (i.e., 25'). Locate a block at head height which is the major weakness. Descend by rappelling from the anchors on Sunrider.
SR with a good selection of small stoppers. Some micro nuts if you're into illusions.
Following is for TR setup. From the base of Sunrider, you can scramble slightly South and then East to the summit ridge and descend to the Sunrider anchor. Using about 30' of rope, it's possible to rig an anchor off a tree directly above the line. By using one of the bolts on the Sunrider anchor, you can mitigate the likelihood of the anchor point sliding down the angled lip.
|Comments on Martyr's Arena
|By kevin murphy|
Aug 20, 2012
Nice job, Joe. Way to make a dream come true.
"Some micro nuts if you're into illusions", can I dislike that comment.
From: Providence, RI
Aug 28, 2012
Wow, man, well done.