Martinez Mind Melter
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Bobby Gray Mind Melting.
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Park your car off of the main canyon road.
left of sinistar
15 Bolts & chains 60 meter rope only tie knot in end of rope when lowering
BOBBY GRAY MINDMELTING
BOBBY GRAY HIGH IN THE SKY
Bobby Gray on Martinez Mind Melter.
|Comments on Martinez Mind Melter
Sep 5, 2008
Long, fun. Relatively clean and solid rock for a newer route. A 60M gets you up and down from a belay stance on that little ledge you scramble up to. It seems to me that a belay bolt up on that ledge, maybe between this route and Sinistar, would be handy. When climbing Sinistar I have belayed off the first bolt on that route, but that bolt looks like it has seen better days. Just a thought; anyone else like that idea?
|By Ryan Stott|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 14, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d R
This is a really fun climb. The length of this climb is what makes the redpoint tricky. The crux is the move at the little roof. I strongly disagree with the comment about this being a clean climb. There is a LOT of loose rock. Luckily, it is mostly small stuff, but a helmet would be a great idea. More traffic will clean up this area, and make it even better.
This climb gets shady faster in the late summer afternoons, which can feel awesome.
--Most people seem to end up staring at the walls trying to figure out the climbs. Go buy Greg M's maps from IME for $10, which apparently goes toward bolting. Thanks to those who bolted this area, one of my new favorites.
|By Alan Avedovech|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 14, 2010
Long and Sweet! The length of this climb definitely the hardest part, then the roof is a little tricky too. The rock quality seemed all right for most of the climb with only 2 questionable sections (slippery and sandy) but you can work through them quickly. All in all this is one of the best climbs at East Hellgate.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 11, 2012
An R rating Ryan? Whew, go climb further down canyon my friend. This climb is not R. It is the opposite of R. It is S, for "sewed" up. It has bolts every 5 feet. I skipped bolts on accident as I couldn't believe another one could be so close. Nevertheless, a brilliant climb.
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
May 22, 2012
So many bolts ... so little time. If you think this is runout, then top roping must be super intense for you.
Not pumpy. The crux at the roof is pretty hard to read, but is the only move on the climb at the 10+ grade. The rest is about 10a.
Compliments to Grego.
60m is fine to get you all the way back to the belay. But do tie knots in the ends of your rope.
|By John Steiger|
Jun 8, 2012
Not to pile on, but this is very safe (gym-style bolting), and the rock is good by Hellgate standards – no reason not to get on it. For those disinclined to buy the IME photocopies, this is the far left line of bolts on the south face of Melting Mud, just left of Sinistar, and before the trail heads west and around the buttress bearing Devil’s Advocate. The rest of the climbs on Melting Mud can be located by using the MP sorter (L to R) and correlating the routes with the bolt lines.
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 9, 2012
Lol really 5.10R?????