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The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ahab T 
Amputee Love T 
Buffoon T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 


YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks, Lynn Smith, 1982
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: MAKB on Mar 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Climb up a not-so-obvious crack that goes up and curves right finishing on the big ledge. It is a good start to the West Crack. The crux is short and secure.


This is between Gumbo and Finger Crack and right below the West Crack.


This seems pretty hard to protect, especially at the crux. It is a good solo.

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By Joshinator
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 23, 2013

This is a fun way to start almost any line on this side of the Whale's Tail. Better than negotiating the standard approach. Seems odd to call this PG-13, since it is so short. If you choose, you can place an orange TCU in a pod in order to protect the one or two 5.6 moves.

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