Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") 5.10a
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Here you can see the route pretty well. Here I am ...
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Description I actually am pretty sure that we are not the first guys to do this, but we asked around and nobody could tell us anyone who did it so...
This route is better than you think it is going to be. Tristan and I would stare at it every time we headed up to the limestone. Finally we decided to just do it.
Little hidden jugs appear on the way up to the steep finger crack. The crack itself is clean and takes great small cams. We were laughing at ourselves when we hit the big horn at the end of the steep part.
You can work your way over to the first bolted ledge of Lounge Lizards or be a man and continue right up George.
Stay out of the "George Direct" corner. Stemming a no no here. Don't do it on this climb! And don't clip any bolts on "George of the Jungle", you don't need em.
Why did we honestly call the route Martha? ...we have our reasons...
Will D.K. ever catch up to the new route pace? I dunno...that new guidebook may never get done! He he he...
Location Sandwiched between the big corner of George Direct and George of the Jungle is this neat overhanging finger crack.
Protection Mostly Small to Medium cams and nuts. Once again the C3's prove their worth!
Me past the crux and on the easy part.
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Me setting some gear before the crux.
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| Comments on Martha (A.K.A. "Turtles Crack") |
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By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Oct 31, 2008
| This route is surprisingly good. I thought it was a bit harder than The Archbishop on PA's Mother. Feels like a solid 5.10 (not sure, though, I'm just getting back into harder trad after being a bolt-clipping pansy for most of the summer), especially if you don't stem. You could probably clip the first bolt on George of the Jungle and can continue clipping them once you're past the crux... But come on, this is a trad route! As long as you're placing gear, you might as well only place gear. After the roof, we went to the rap anchors at the base of George/top of Lounge Lizards (what's with that bolted crack, btw?? It takes perfect gear! Pity...). Keeping in mind that I get really excited about trad routes that others don't find all that great, I feel like this route is an overlooked Rock Canyon trad classic. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Nov 6, 2008
| I checked out the link and made some changes to the route info. He describes it as 5.11. I would disagree with this. I have not done a lot of overhanging finger cracks but I still thought solid 5.10 was right. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Nov 16, 2008
| To be honest, I think 5.10a is a bit of a sandbag, but I don't think it's 5.11. |
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