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soloing the marsupial traverse in 2010
The Marsupials Traverse is probably the longest climb at Smith. Much of it is pretty runout with dangerous falls, but no runouts harder than 5.5ish climbing, though some of this is on loose rock. Not a good first route, but if your solid at the grade on runouts this is an awsome climb. There are multiple ways to start this route, how ever you choose to get to the top of the mudpile is up to you. I will describe the easiest way starting with Carla the Stripper.
P1 - 5.8 - Follow the boltline atop the block, up and to anchors.
P2 - 5.7 - Step out and left and follow bolts to the top, or step right 5.4 and follow bolts to the top.
Downclimb off the north end of the mudpile to a single bolt belay.
P3 - 5.7R - Continue traversing towards Mini Half dome, clip one bolt and make one harder move onto the top of the thing next to Mini Half Dome. There is one more bolt here you can clip. Now either stem or jump the gap to Mini HD. Belay from bolt anchor. Easy runouts.
Rappel off the north side of Mini HD.
P4 - 5.5R/X - This is a long 200ft pitch, with runouts on 5.4 climbing. Follow the west face route of Brogan spire. Immediatly clip one bolt and make the hardest move of the pitch. The follow the easiest line, as far as you can make it to a double bolt belay atop the huge ledge. Oppritunity exists for akward gear placements, tho if you fell at some points you could go a long way. (rated X by Watts)
P5 - 5.5R - The bird shit pitch! Head straight up placeing a few peices before running it out into the bird shit. Mantle to the top through the bird shit.
Rappel north into the notch move belay to double bolted belay atop original P2 of the cave route.
P6 - 5.4R - Head north towards the tail, cut left accross an akward ledge to the north side of the tail, then clip a bolt and head to anchors below the summit. Belay your partner to the top then have him down climb and lead the next pitch. Rotten rock on this pitch.
P7 - 5.5 - For the seconds sake (if you dont moove the belay) it is best to only clip the last of the 3 bolts. Clipping the first two might create some akward rope drag and could create a nasty fall for the second when downclimbing from the anchor. Either way follow the path of three bolts up good rock to anchor atop the opossum.
Either do a double rope rappel or...
P8 - 5.1R - Traverse along the ridge to an old anchor with slings. From here one 60m makes it to the ground.
Starts on the Mudpile. Carla the Stripper is on the east face, and starts atop a block just as the hill begins to steepen.
6-8 Long slings & Cams to 3"
Belaying atop the Opposum
Belaying from up on the Opposum, looking back towa...
Almost done. Not the best rock, but it was a hell ...
The line I trail behind for rappelling wrapped aro...
high on the marsupials traverse, part 2
high on the marsupials traverse
the day I decided to finally solo the marsupial tr...
BETA PHOTO: Looking from the summit of Brogan Spire down the v...
Belay station on the Mudpile
BETA PHOTO: The traverse from the Mudpile to Mini Halfdome
The Marsupial Traverse...
By Stephen Davis
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
I would definately say bringing to #3 cams would be excessive, the only half decent cam placements on the whole route were a yellow TCU, blue TCU and a #1 camalot, but all these had nut placement near them, so just bring nuts!
May 25, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
As an alternative to the rotten rock of pitch 6 (above), try rappelling off of the anchors of the second pitch of the cave route. You will find these after descending from Brogan Spire summit, on a big flat ledge. Nice big bolts.
Next, pass through the cave of the Cave Route, and make your way back to the top of its first pitch. From there, traverse far to climber's right on the route Living Blindly. This is all easy climbing except for one exposed move on not very good rock. There is a bolt in your face for this move.
Finally, summit the Opposum, as described above, and traverse down the razor ridge. I used a 45 meter rope to rappel.
By Mateo San Pedro
May 28, 2016
This sounds like a fun free solo. Yes or no? Rock too loose to trust? Too many mandatory rappels?
By Andrew Child
1 day ago
This is a fun and interesting route. I have a few comments:
There are very few cam placements on this route, I think we ended up placing 4 total.
Most of the run outs go through long sections of easy huecos and pockets. Some of these might be small enough to fit a hex or a tri cam into for some peace of mind, but the rock is just kind of junky so I don't know how well it would work.
We were unable to find a bolted anchor at the top of pitch 4. My partner ended up getting short roped at the end of our 70 trying to reach the bolted anchor at the base of pitch 5 and ended up having to back up and build a trad anchor out of stoppers and small cams in a crack about 20 ft away. This whole time we couldn't hear each other either.
I recommend rappelling down the top two pitches of cave route and climbing up two pitches of living blindly as described in the Watts beta rather than doing the 6th pitch as described here.