|Type:||Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]|
|Submitted By:||corvegas on Mar 12, 2007|
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|Comments on Marsupials Traverse||Add Comment|
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By Stephen Davis
Oct 24, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
|I would definately say bringing to #3 cams would be excessive, the only half decent cam placements on the whole route were a yellow TCU, blue TCU and a #1 camalot, but all these had nut placement near them, so just bring nuts!|
May 25, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
As an alternative to the rotten rock of pitch 6 (above), try rappelling off of the anchors of the second pitch of the cave route. You will find these after descending from Brogan Spire summit, on a big flat ledge. Nice big bolts.
Next, pass through the cave of the Cave Route, and make your way back to the top of its first pitch. From there, traverse far to climber's right on the route Living Blindly. This is all easy climbing except for one exposed move on not very good rock. There is a bolt in your face for this move.
Finally, summit the Opposum, as described above, and traverse down the razor ridge. I used a 45 meter rope to rappel.
By Mateo San Pedro
May 28, 2016
|This sounds like a fun free solo. Yes or no? Rock too loose to trust? Too many mandatory rappels?|
By Andrew Child
3 days ago
This is a fun and interesting route. I have a few comments:
There are very few cam placements on this route, I think we ended up placing 4 total.
Most of the run outs go through long sections of easy huecos and pockets. Some of these might be small enough to fit a hex or a tri cam into for some peace of mind, but the rock is just kind of junky so I don't know how well it would work.
We were unable to find a bolted anchor at the top of pitch 4. My partner ended up getting short roped at the end of our 70 trying to reach the bolted anchor at the base of pitch 5 and ended up having to back up and build a trad anchor out of stoppers and small cams in a crack about 20 ft away. This whole time we couldn't hear each other either.
I recommend rappelling down the top two pitches of cave route and climbing up two pitches of living blindly as described in the Watts beta rather than doing the 6th pitch as described here.
By Ben Stabley
From: Portland, OR
2 days ago
Climbed it this weekend (10/22/16) and found it a great, fun adventure route. I had climbed the "standard" moderate multipitch routes on Mudpile and Brogan Spire a couple times, so it was exciting to go into new terrain while doing this route.
Pro: I brought nuts, tricams, and cams 0.3-3. Maybe a bit excessive, but I'd rather have more than less, and I was also climbing Birds in a Rut after finishing this route. I didn't use a single nut, but I did use tricams a lot in the pockets, as well as the med-large cams. Quickraws, 60cm alpine draws, and a couple 120cm alpine draws.
P1&2- Climb Lusty Lady. You can link these if you want.
Move belay to the north, before the 3rd class downclimb.
P3- Down climb 3rd class (ramp) to a narrowish ridge. Clip a few bolts, then climb up (bolt) over a "gendarme". Down climb the opposite side of the gendarme, taking care as much of it is loose (I could wiggle stuff). Cross over to Mini Halfdome, place a cam to protect your 2nd, then walk up and use the bolt anchor.
Rap from here off Mini Halfdome to the ground, then scramble back up through the easy chimney/slot between Mudpile and Brogan.
P4- Climb the south ridge of Brogan Spire (called "West Face" in Watts). Pass one bolt, then easy pockets to the top of the ridge. Take a left (north), and you'll top out on a giant plateau. I don't think this pitch warrants X, maybe R, but I felt comfortable on it. There is a bolted anchor on the far side of this plateau, climber's right, which is the anchor for Smash the Silence. I can't confirm a 60m or 70m rope will allow you to do this in one pitch (I had an 80m), but Watts says you can "easily combine...with a long rope." If you can't reach the bolts, there is a very large boulder about 10m away that you can lasso with the rope for an anchor, which was my plan before exploring more and finding the bolts).
P5- Climb the rest of the way to the top of Brogan Spire. One spot low for a bomber small cam, then less great gear above. There are chains on the south side of the spire, which you could clip for protection before pulling up onto the actual top. I belayed from bolts on the top.
Rap down to the cave. This can be done in 2 raps (reverse of the Cave Route), or 1 long rap directly to the cave. If going directly to the cave, be advised that it's 40m to a safe landing spot near the cave.
Move belay to the P1 anchor of Cave Route/Living Blindly.
P6&7- Climb Living Blindly to the top of the opossum.
P8- Head climber's right along a 4th class ridge to a set of bolts on a flat area. You can protect the ridge with a few med-large cams.
Rap north from here to the ground. <30m
I don't recommend going directly to the tail from Brogan Spire (North Face Traverse or Tail Direct (45, 45a) in Watts), as it is likely you will knock off something onto the inevitable crowds down on Cave Route/Living Blindly.