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Marshfield Ledge is a large 3-pitch granite cliff reminiscent of Whitehorse Ledge in NH. The established routes range from traditional to sport. Many of the routes are slab, friction affairs, but recently some hard overhanging sport routes have been put in. The rock quality is great. Most of the routes have bolt anchors. This cliff has been a secret for years and is now starting to see consistent traffic. The views are splendid and look out over very undeveloped, wild green mountains.
The cliff is located in the town of Marshfield and is on Vermont State Forest property. From Rt 302 take 232 north. From Rt. 2 take 232 south. Turn east off 232 just north of the Kettle Pond parking lot. Follow this dirt road for 2 miles until views of the cliff appear to the north. Park by a logging road that heads toward the cliff. Hike the logging road for about 10 minutes until you turn right on to the climbers trail, which is just before a large boulder. Take this climbers trail all the way to the base of the cliff.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Marshfield Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Marshfield Ledge:
Wankers in the Kingdom WI5 M5+ A0 R Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 300'
Just for Goobs 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Requim for a Dreamer 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Black Streak 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Chicken Wing Slab 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Pistol Whipped 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
The Deadline 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 440'
Proud and Free 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Groton High Grade 5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
High Grade The Hard Way 5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Marshfield Ledge
Groton High Grade 5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c VT : Marshfield Ledge
Peter says this is the best sport pitch in Vermont. If it wasn't so freaking hard I would agree. The route starts on good crimps at the base of a large, overhanging wall. The crimps get worse and climb sustained 5.12 to a 5.13 boulder move than 5.11 to the chains. Great endurance climbing on overhanging granite, a rarity in Vermont. ...[more] Browse More Classics in VT
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