Marshfield Ledge Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Marshfield Ledge from the West.
Marshfield Ledge is a large 3-pitch granite cliff reminiscent of Whitehorse Ledge in NH. The established routes range from traditional to sport. Many of the routes are slab, friction affairs, but recently some hard overhanging sport routes have been put in. The rock quality is great. Most of the routes have bolt anchors. This cliff has been a secret for years and is now starting to see consistent traffic. The views are splendid and look out over very undeveloped, wild green mountains.
The cliff is located in the town of Marshfield and is on Vermont State Forest property. From Rt 302 take 232 north. From Rt. 2 take 232 south. Turn east off 232 just north of the Kettle Pond parking lot. Follow this dirt road for 2 miles until views of the cliff appear to the north. Park by a logging road that heads toward the cliff. Hike the logging road for about 10 minutes until you turn right on to the climbers trail, which is just before a large boulder. Take this climbers trail all the way to the base of the cliff.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Marshfield Ledge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Marshfield Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Marshfield Ledge:
Black Streak 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Marshfield Ledge
Groton High Grade 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c VT
: Marshfield Ledge
Peter says this is the best sport pitch in Vermont. If it wasn't so freaking hard I would agree. The route starts on good crimps at the base of a large, overhanging wall. The crimps get worse and climb sustained 5.12 to a 5.13 boulder move than 5.11 to the chains. Great endurance climbing on overhanging granite, a rarity in Vermont. ...[more] Browse More Classics in VT
By burlap submariner
Jan 16, 2012
any one know what the rating is for the picture perfect off width route maybe a pitch or so off the deck near the center of the cliff?
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 18, 2012
I believe the route you are talking about is 10+.
By Ben Townsend
Jul 27, 2014
As of summer 2014, the logging road that goes right off Railroad Bed East is in great shape. Drive in about half a mile to a clearing and park. A brush pile (with one piece of orange flagging) partially blocks the left fork of the logging road, which is discontinued and grassy. Hike down the left fork for five or ten minutes until a large boulder appears; the climbers' trail takes off to the right here, and is easy to follow.
By Alden Pellett
Aug 24, 2015
Great climbing here! Not just the home of a stellar 5.13 wall.
Good moderates with some spicy climbing. Bring your slab-climbing skills too.
Black Streak, 5.8+R
Requiem for a Dream, 5.8+ (5.7R) to Parula, 5.11a(5.7R)
Shorty's Poop Route, 5.10A,(5.6R)
Pick up the Tough Schist guidebook on Vermont rock climbing - well worth it.
Beautiful wilderness-feeling spot with lakes nearby.