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South Peak - West Face
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Marshall's Madness 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Marshall, John Christian 1955
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Felix Duvallet on May 21, 2012
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(Marshall's didn't have a page separate from Crack of Dawn so this was created)

This is a classic! Three excellent pitches, but some or all can be combined. A lot of parties only do the first one, but all three offer great climbing.

1. Start at an obvious hand/fist crack on the left of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. Climb through a small overhang to the first belay (visible from the ground).

2. Continue straight up through widening cracks, eventually traversing left on easier ground to a 3-bolt belay on a ledge on the left face (which won't be visible until you get there).

3. Move back to the right, climb straight up the face/cracks to a small chimney. At the chimney move right to a very small ledge and cold shuts (this is also the top of Crack of Dawn).


Left side of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. This route shares a start with Crack of Dawn.

Two ropes will get you all the way down. With a single rope, stopping at the anchors on Triple S is one easy way down.


Great pro all the way up. Bolted belay anchors.

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By John Ely
From: DC
Nov 20, 2012

The original route traversed in to the first belay from the Triple S corner, which is 5.8 and makes the whole thing a strenuous but beautiful 5.8.