Marshall's Madness  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 165 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Tom Marshall, John Christian 1955 Submitted By:  Felix Duvallet on May 21, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

(Marshall's didn't have a page separate from Crack of Dawn so this was created)

This is a classic! Three excellent pitches, but some or all can be combined. A lot of parties only do the first one, but all three offer great climbing.

1. Start at an obvious hand/fist crack on the left of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. Climb through a small overhang to the first belay (visible from the ground).

2. Continue straight up through widening cracks, eventually traversing left on easier ground to a 3-bolt belay on a ledge on the left face (which won't be visible until you get there).

3. Move back to the right, climb straight up the face/cracks to a small chimney. At the chimney move right to a very small ledge and cold shuts (this is also the top of Crack of Dawn).

Location 

Left side of the Face of a Thousand Pitons. This route shares a start with Crack of Dawn.

Two ropes will get you all the way down. With a single rope, stopping at the anchors on Triple S is one easy way down.

Protection 

Great pro all the way up. Bolted belay anchors.