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Mars Attacks - Sedona
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By Micah Kurtz
Jan 9, 2014

I've only had the pleasure of climbing the first two pitches and I was surprised at the gecko friction finesse the first pitch required. How does the slab on the 4th compare?

Thanks,
Micah


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Jan 9, 2014
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

IMHO the slab on p4 is easier by a grade or two than on p1.


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By Marcy
From Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Jan 9, 2014
the tornado

^^^ Yes. I agree with this.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Jan 9, 2014
tanuki

Mike wrote:
IMHO the slab on p4 is easier by a grade or two than on p1.


Agree. Think that pitch one is the crux, and harder than 5.9. My slab-master partner felt that the first-pitch crux move was "thin, but all there." YMMV.

All the fussing about grades aside, it is a fun and varied route. I would not hesitate to do it again.


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By KayLeann
From Tempe, AZ
Jan 11, 2014
The Peacemaker

I would definitely agree that P1 is more difficult than P4. But if you have decent experience with slab and are comfortable with having nothing to hold on to, P1 is almost a breeze!

Awesome route with all types of climbing. Done it twice and wouldn't hesitate to do it again.


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By JMo
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 11, 2014
mayflower

Bit easier. But p4 has some very hollow rock, including a huge chunk off the belay - go right! And another chunk up and right on bolts. Be careful. But do it


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By Kyle Christie
From Davis, CA
Jan 11, 2014
City of Rocks

As noted, the last pitch feels quite a bit easier than the first technically speaking; however its hard to mitigate drag on that pitch as the angle gets lower and lower as the pitch finishes. you'll be facing a few friction moves with lots o'drag. i've done the route a few times and remember basically running towards the final anchors.

more importantly, you've missed p.3 which is super cool, arguably the best pitch of climbing on the route.


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By DesertRat
Jan 12, 2014

Just did it today. There were 3 moves that gave me pause. The one 5.8+ move on P1, the bulge on P2 and the very last move(slab) before the walk on P4. None were hard, but I had to think about them. If you climbed the first 2 pitches, then you did the hardest moves, in my opinion.


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By Kyle Christie
From Davis, CA
Jan 12, 2014
City of Rocks

DesertRat wrote:
Just did it today. There were 3 moves that gave me pause. The one 5.8+ move on P1, the bulge on P2 and the very last move(slab) before the walk on P4. None were hard, but I had to think about them. If you climbed the first 2 pitches, then you did the hardest moves, in my opinion.


Dang, you're good at slab climbing if that feels like 5.8. Very nice.


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By DesertRat
Jan 12, 2014

Wouldn't say I'm especially good at slabs. Just comparing it to other slabs I've climbed. For my 5.8 reference, I was thinking it was very similar in security and difficulty to the Original Route on Waves of Rock at Granite Mountain.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Jan 12, 2014
tanuki

Kyle Christie wrote:
As noted, the last pitch feels quite a bit easier than the first technically speaking; however its hard to mitigate drag on that pitch as the angle gets lower and lower as the pitch finishes. you'll be facing a few friction moves with lots o'drag. i've done the route a few times and remember basically running towards the final anchors. more importantly, you've missed p.3 which is super cool, arguably the best pitch of climbing on the route.


Agree that pitch #3 is the best. IMHO, it is much better than the others. YMMV.


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