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Secluded high elevation sport and trad climing? Lots of great climbs on solid quartzite rock. Ranging from 5.6 to 5.12, and lots more route potential. With more climbers these routes will clean up nicely and be a great adition to the wasatch range. In 1992 my unkle Mike Hansen and I (Sean Hansen) climbed a first pitch and part of the second pitch of Satori Possibly the first ever climbing in Marryellens Gulch. In think in 1993 Boone Speed bolted and climed the Curse Wall and a picture was featured in Rock and Ice or Climbing Magazine. Then in 1994 My dad John Hansen and I started bolting. The first route we did was Satroi one of the best climbs I have ever done. We Have placed about 55 climbs in the area and Darren Knezek (who did the recent maple canyon guide book) has put several climbs in the area as well. Some climbs are sport but others will need a standard trad rack. I would rocomend doubles if not triples of size 0-3 tcus. All routes rap from anchors and some have a walk off option also. There is more route potential for anyone who wants to set some Routes.
You need a high clearance 4x4 to access these climbs or two wheel drive high clearance and hike the road into Maryellens Gulch about 1 mile to the Climbing. Drive up American Fork canyon just past little mill campground, turn left to tible fork reservoir (North Fork). At the parking area go strait onto the dirt road, do not continue up the paved switch backs to granite reservoir. Follow the dirt road(seams like along ways) 15 to 30 min depending on how fast you drive. You will drive over a bridge up a steep hill then up some switch backs to a narrow road with a steep drop to your right. You will come to a right hand turn that crosses the river and turns right and climbs a steep hill (forest lake trail), continue strait on the dirt road on your left will be a big pull out, further up will be a second pull out. Turn left into this pull out and to your left will be a brown post with trail 111. (Maryellen's Gulch jeep trail) If you do not have a high clearance 4x4 park hear and hike up road 111. Otherwise drive up road 111 you will start off heading west pass a steel gate then turn north after about a mile you will see some pull outs to park on the road. Once you pass the gate and go north a ways on the road north you will see to your right a small pull out park here for the east crags or continue up a little further and there will be a smaller pull out to the left. There is a big boulder on the right side of the road up above it you will see the Pansie slab. Bush wack (unless I have cut the trail for the year) to the slab. From here you can follow the crag north for lots more climbs (Desire wall, Rose hips, Bulgy the whale, stretch Armstrong, Raspberry truffle). If you drive past these pull outs continue up the road about 100 yards right after a really rough section of the road there will be pull outs on the right and left park here for access to curse wall, jelly stone, skid mark, satori, and all of the west crags. Walk about 50ft south on the raod then hike east up to the jelly stone Wall. You can scramble up between the Curse wall and Jelly stone wall then go right to get to skid mark or scramble up once more between to short crags then head right to the top of satori. To access the west side crags hike 50ft up (north)on the road from the 2 pull outs, then descend to the river and cross. On the other side is an old road hike north for about 100 yards. You will be in a grove of pine trees when you turn left and follow the path of least resistance to the Three aces wall. Caution this is a narrow one lane Road with limited trafic but if you meet some one, one of you will have to back up a long ways.
40 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mary Ellen's Gulch:
Sharpie 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Wing Shot 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Q.F. (quartzite fun) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Tempered Glass 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Sport Mining 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Aspen Undercling 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Jelly Stone 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Squaty Body 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Bent Tree Camo 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Hunter Orange 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Pine Cone Cafe 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Black and Tan 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Double Pane Direct 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 40'
Hard Rock Minor 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Satori 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Mary Ellen's Gulch
Sport Mining 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a UT : Wasatch Range : Mary Ellen's Gulch
I usually lead this with just the bolts but you can place a tcu or small cam to lessen the run outs (Run outs are not bad). I love this climb a classic for the area, Climb it every time I'm up there....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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