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John's Tower
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Big House 
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Burning Man 
Burning Mon 
Chocolate Hotdog 
Corridor Crack 
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Fun House 
House of Cards 
In the Flat Field 
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive 
Jamminy Crackit 
Married On Morphine 
Rose Hips 
Seventeen Pantomimes 
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Steppin' Out 
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Vowel Movement 
Yellow Belly 
Unsorted Routes:

Married On Morphine 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pete Takeda and Jen Hanft
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: P Takeda on Jul 17, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Married on Morphine.


Thin crux seam for first 20 feet with flared hand, tips. and edges lead to hand jam and good horizontal. Above is a hard fist/ow bulge leading to squeeze and finally a fixed belay. The route is lichen crusted down low--should clean up well--might get easier.


Married On Morphine takes a slightly left leaning seam and fist/ow crack on the right side of John's Wall--maybe 200 feet roughly west (climber's right) of Burning Man.

On the approach, go right after crossing the fence. See picture.


One key fixed micro-wired. A #00 cam, some RPs and a #2 Camalot for down low. Hand/fist sized gear for the upper crack. Two #4 Camalots are nice for the upper bit.

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By Justin Edl
Jul 18, 2009

Nice work, Pete!

By Seth Murphy
Jul 18, 2009

Looks good, Pete, nice job. Something else to add to the list....