Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
John's Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
? 
Becker 
Big House 
Blood Clot 
Burning Man 
Burning Mon 
Chocolate Hotdog 
Corridor Crack 
Day Saver, The 
Double Dippin' 
Fun House 
House of Cards 
In the Flat Field 
Iron Maiden a.k.a. Blood Drive 
Jamminy Crackit 
Married On Morphine 
Rose Hips 
Seventeen Pantomimes 
Soul Fire 
Steppin' Out 
Taco Filling 
Ultra Violets 
Vowel Movement 
Yellow Belly 
Unsorted Routes:

Married On Morphine 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Pete Takeda and Jen Hanft
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: P Takeda on Jul 17, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Married on Morphine.

Description 

Thin crux seam for first 20 feet with flared hand, tips. and edges lead to hand jam and good horizontal. Above is a hard fist/ow bulge leading to squeeze and finally a fixed belay. The route is lichen crusted down low--should clean up well--might get easier.


Location 

Married On Morphine takes a slightly left leaning seam and fist/ow crack on the right side of John's Wall--maybe 200 feet roughly west (climber's right) of Burning Man.

On the approach, go right after crossing the fence. See picture.


Protection 

One key fixed micro-wired. A #00 cam, some RPs and a #2 Camalot for down low. Hand/fist sized gear for the upper crack. Two #4 Camalots are nice for the upper bit.



Comments on Married On Morphine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Justin Edl
Jul 18, 2009

Nice work, Pete!

By Seth Murphy
Jul 18, 2009

Looks good, Pete, nice job. Something else to add to the list....