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Middle Small Wall
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Devine Climb T 
Handjob T 
Investigator T 
Lactic Acid T 
Layback Crack T 
Marmalde T 
Quest, The T 

Marmalde 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Seibert and Ed Pearsall-1980
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Jun 8, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Marmalade

Description 

This route follows a striking wide splitter on the wall just to the right of a very prominent right facing corner.

Start on a block just off the trail, climb up a dirty crack for 10 feet until you are on a ledge below this beauty. I thought the crux was getting off this ledge and into the crack. From the ledge, place pro and fire out the overhang via ever-widening jams. Once your feet are under you, cruise to the top on arm bars and stacks. Build a gear anchor at the top.

Descent-Traverse over to the rap anchor on top of Layback Crack.

Location 

From the approach trail head left, passing several routes until you reach a huge right-facing corner.

Protection 

Nothing smaller than a #2 camalot. A #2 fits in the back (i.e., out of your way) of the crack at the overhang, after which you will only need larger stuff up to a #5 camalot.


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