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BETA PHOTO: Marmalade
This route follows a striking wide splitter on the wall just to the right of a very prominent right facing corner.
Start on a block just off the trail, climb up a dirty crack for 10 feet until you are on a ledge below this beauty. I thought the crux was getting off this ledge and into the crack. From the ledge, place pro and fire out the overhang via ever-widening jams. Once your feet are under you, cruise to the top on arm bars and stacks. Build a gear anchor at the top.
Descent-Traverse over to the rap anchor on top of Layback Crack.
From the approach trail head left, passing several routes until you reach a huge right-facing corner.
Nothing smaller than a #2 camalot. A #2 fits in the back (i.e., out of your way) of the crack at the overhang, after which you will only need larger stuff up to a #5 camalot.