Climb up the overhanging wall on insane jugs. As you round the bulge, holds get smaller. The Dixie Cragger's Atlas has the route trending right to finish in the chimney. We went up and vaguely to the left instead, because it looked cooler.
Kind of like My Dog Has Fleas, only steeper and trad!
On the north side of Holiday Block. Starts on the same bulging, overhanging wall as My Dog Has Fleas. Walk around to the right from My Dog Has Fleas, to the steeper section of the wall -- a bit to the left of the chimney.
standard rack, build a gear anchor at the top
From: Decatur, GA
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This is really quite a nice route with a challenging transition from the juggy overhanging section into the chimney. For a fun variation on toprope (or on lead, for that matter), start directly under the chimney instead of to the left and power your way up a nice crack system to the chimney.