|Type:||TR, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||R. Shore 2011|
|Submitted By:||Richard Shore on Feb 28, 2012|
|Comments on Mark It Zero!||Add Comment|
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By Stephen D
Apr 5, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beautiful looking route and one of the better views from top (relative to other rocks in the area).
First I climbed the line which is marked in red in the photo, but it seemed like a 5.5 that was a 5.7 only due to having a uniform coating of moss on it. The top out move was 5.8/5.9 though. With a ledge the size of my torso about 5 feet from the bolts about to fall directly onto the belayer. Be careful.
So I assumed the 5.10 climb was the arete itself, but when I broke off 5 holds in the first 8 feet of the climb (yes, 5 in the first 8 feet), the last one being the large, distinguished ear (which pulled off into my face from 3 inches away, showering me and my belayer in moss dust) I quit.
Nobody else in the party wanted to bother an attempt, and everybody but the belayer walked away after a few moves because it was raining moss and choss. Torrential downpours.
Maybe this used to be a good climb? It sure does look like fun. It looks like a lot of fun. But... I'm tempted to say that this isn't even a climb - at least not anymore.