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Cactus Rose Cliff
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Unsorted Routes:

Mark Finds Bob Bolting 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Mark Milligan
Page Views: 459
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Oct 8, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

This route is located on the left end of the 'Cactus Rose Crag' This line is the 2nd route from the far left, starting directly in front of pine tree. The climbing is quite continuous on small pockets, sloping ledges. A good route but could be easily underestimated. At the anchor, you can lower from a rap ring on a sling anchor. You can also toprope this route by going around the corner to the left from the base and up through an easy chimney to the top where there are trees to belay from. Have fun. This is not a great warm up, but a decent intermediate route.


Protection 

4 bolts - 2 bolt/sling anchor.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 24, 2012
By montay
Oct 16, 2001

If I remember right, the tree that is beneath this climb has a very sharp, dead limb at the top. If it is still there you definitely don't want to fall on it. We're talkin' guts everywhere!

By Zachary Thomas
Sep 22, 2002

Yes, be careful. I fell from the 4th bolt and almost was shiskibobed on the mother F*%_in tree. It should be cut down. Be careful!!!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 23, 2002

The best solotion if the climb is really so dangerous is to either stay away from it, bolt it better (with consideration for tree growth) or to have had it never put in. Since #2 and #3 are not realistic...maybe don't climb it, or get permission from the FA party to add a bolt. I'd rather see a bolt added than a tree removed. Better yet, just make sure your belayer is super attentive near any such fall potential. Careful about doing something as drastic as cutting a tree on public land. If it's private property, then obviously its up to the land owner. I've seen tree removal cause significant hard feelings, access issues, or a dislike of climbers on both public and private land. It might also land you in court and/or jail. My opinon is that removing lichens from a route is one thing- cutting down a large tree is quite a bit more... of course it is debatable. This is my opinion- other's will vary. -Tony Bubb

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2002

Sounds like its bolted pretty well to me, as you only "almost" hit the tree. It would be a bad bolting job if you did actually skewer yourself. Remove the tree and you'll understand why so many land managers have issues with climbing, especially bouldering.

By richard magill
May 8, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Did this recently - I thought the last move is harder than a 5.10 move (if you stay directly in line with the bolt and anchors).I was not concerned about the tree.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
May 15, 2007

The tree is definitely something to be aware of. I moved slightly right at the last bolt since I wasn't finding anything remotely 10ish straight up.

By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I wasn't too worried about the tree, did not look to be in the fall line. I also moved a bit right at the top which made it more reasonable for a 10d (although overall I thought this was a really hard line to read...more like 11a even once I knew where to go...)

Dan Godshall

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 14, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I thought this was a good solid route for the grade (10d). Definitely follow the moves, not the bolts or it could be harder.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 1, 2008

I was just short of being able to clip the anchors from the bolt line, and the last move to get to the anchors seemed much too thin to be 5.10. I ended up going somewhat to the right and then traversing back left to the anchors, clipping from above. This is a nice route, but seems hard for a 10.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 3, 2012

As of early September 2012, this route is missing the fifth bolt hanger, and the anchor setup needs one quicklink on each bolt/hanger. The way it is now with a single carabiner on each cold shut will twist the #!*&% out of your rope. If you don't have quicklinks, rappel the route instead of lowering to minimize rope curling.

By Kenan
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The last moves to the chains (err... I mean oval biners?!) are definitely thin and spicy.