|Type:||Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 280', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Tim McCabe and Mark DeVries|
|Submitted By:||Tim McCabe on Nov 1, 2006|
|Comments on Mark and Timís Excellent Adventure. (in the land of the leberlopers).||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By adam tschida
Jul 12, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Did this route over the 4th, and have several comments.
First of all, this really is an excellent route. Tim's description is really pretty good, once you add the mental punctuation. The 3rd pitch rivals Moonlight Rib for one of the most fun in the Needles, IMHO.
The route is on the NW side of Loeber's Leap, and shady most of the day. The rock quality is excellent.
I wouldn't recommend the traverse to the right, but rather head up to the fifth bolt and climb the "sport climb" variation. I did the traverse and had tremendous rope drag. I also had my partner clean the gear, reverse the traverse and climb the sport variation, because if she had fallen at the crux, she would have swung a long ways.
Gear needed is a red alien or tricam, a couple shoulder slings and 7 QDs.
There are no rap slings at the end of the first pitch. The rappel from the end of the second pitch to the ground is 58m.
By Tim McCabe
Mar 10, 2008
Thanks for the comments glad you liked the route, as the name implies we had fun putting it up.
Not sure about the problems you encountered with the crux traverse, but maybe I should have said long runners instead of slings and draws. I donít remember there being a problem with rope drag but I am sure I would have used a long runner on that piece.
I am not sure what you are talking about with the long swing for the second it has been too long since I have been on it.
Sounds like you can get down in one rap with 2 60 meter ropes; there is also the option of descending the 4th class route.
By josh balt
From: Hill City South Dakota
Apr 23, 2011
|I have done this route many times, its so good. The last pitch as stellar as the moonlight rib! This is a perfect example of utilizing the full potential Black Hills Climbing can offer.|