Start off on a jug, move into thin tips laybacking in the bulging corner. At the top of the corner is a slam dunk move out right to a sloper then traverse one move left onto good jugs. The crux is next and it is pulling out of the mini-roof. Punch it out of the crux with an airy deadpoint to a great jug. Fight the pump to the top and work the good hands to their end. Punch it to the anchors and don't fall off those last sloping crimps, they get sharp and strange at the very top.
Route is shaded.
Three routes left of Jaws
and two right from Chockstone
. Obvious hard trad line.
Bring a selection of smaller gear (TCUs) and nuts. Some larger pieces are useful in the upper part of the route. Bolted anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Marionette (5.11c)
Ladd on his Redpoint, somewhere after the crux.
Ladd trying desperately to get gear... No I didn'...
Ladd pulling a few of the upper moves