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Bridge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Touch of Tango T 
Angel's Arete T,TR 
Are You An Idiot? T 
Are You Experienced? T 
Blunder and Frightening T,TR 
Butterbeans T 
Chockstone T,TR 
Dogfight T 
Dresden Corner T 
Easily Flakey T,TR 
Englishman's Crack T 
Gag Reflex T 
Handsome and Well-Hung T 
High Times T 
Horton's Tree T 
International Incident T 
Jaws T,TR 
Labor Day T 
Layback T 
Let the Wind Blow S 
Let's Get Physical T 
Macho Man T 
Marionette T,TR 
Mayfly T 
Mean Old Mr. Gravity S 
Mega Magic S 
Monkey See, Monkey Do T,TR 
Penalty Situation T,TR 
Pirouette  S 
Raptured T 
Strategem, The S 
Strech Armstrong S 
Team Machine S 
Tree Route, The T,TR 
Underfling T 
Whammy S 
Zag T,TR 

Marionette 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kline, Artz '83
Page Views: 3,584
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007

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Past the lower section, getting set for the crux a...

Description 

Start off on a jug, move into thin tips laybacking in the bulging corner. At the top of the corner is a slam dunk move out right to a sloper then traverse one move left onto good jugs. The crux is next and it is pulling out of the mini-roof. Punch it out of the crux with an airy deadpoint to a great jug. Fight the pump to the top and work the good hands to their end. Punch it to the anchors and don't fall off those last sloping crimps, they get sharp and strange at the very top.

Location 

Route is shaded.
Three routes left of Jaws and two right from Chockstone. Obvious hard trad line.

Protection 

Bring a selection of smaller gear (TCUs) and nuts. Some larger pieces are useful in the upper part of the route. Bolted anchor.


Photos of Marionette Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marionette (5.11c)
BETA PHOTO: Marionette (5.11c)
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Marionette.
Me on Marionette.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd on his Redpoint, somewhere after the crux.
Ladd on his Redpoint, somewhere after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd trying desperately to get gear...  No I didn'...
Ladd trying desperately to get gear... No I didn'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ladd pulling a few of the upper moves
Ladd pulling a few of the upper moves
Rock Climbing Photo: Marionette
Marionette

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