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Unsorted Routes:

Maria's Farewell 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: P. Broscovak and M. Cranor
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Jun 16, 2009
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Description 

This is a wonderful line that can be done in two short pitches or one with a little rope drag. The route starts out with a stout, little, off width, bulgy roof then moves slightly left and up a sweet 5.9 finger crack. The crux of the route is the start of the dihedral. This was the traditional second pitch. It starts out steep and stiff for 15 feet then goes up a joyful dihedral to the top.


Location 

On the far right side of the upper wall of the first buttress is a line that heads up into a prominent, shallow, right-facing dihedral.


Protection 

A standard rack will do nicely.



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By TuFF GonG
From: gunnison Colorado
Aug 30, 2009

If you break the route up into two pitches, I would recommend traversing up and left near the top of the second pitch and gain the anchors for Three Pin. The traverse its self is very fun and it allows you to rap. If doing Maria's in one pitch, forget about it. The rope drag would be awful.

By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Great climb. The start of the second pitch is stout!! Very slippery but good gear nonetheless. I thoroughly enjoyed myself on the OW, it is great stuff.

By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Sep 15, 2011

I had one piece in on this climb, fell out of the bulgy OW from 20ft and decked. Broken tibia. Bummer. Now all I can do is sit on MP and dream of all the fun.

By phil broscovak
Sep 29, 2011

Kyle, what a drag! Heal up quickly. Where did you pop off from?

By Kyle Judson
From: Colorado
Oct 12, 2011

I was pulling through the wide and awkward start before the good rest at the bottom of the slanted finger crack. Only 15 to 20ft up. I had a #3 Camalot in the back of the crack and that was it. I was looking for a stance to protect again, but I lost a foot and went for a ride. I fell past the belay ledge into the side hill. J. Malley later told me about a little hole in the rock that you can sling and it protects that awkward section really well. I'm almost back though. Going to Penatente Halloween weekend.... Just not gonna lead yet.

By Jamie Estep
From: Crested Butte, CO
Oct 12, 2011

At least you didn't "2" the fall. There's some awesome Swiss cheese 5.8s in Penitente worth leading.