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Climb up in to a small cave, then pull the roof out of the cave and into a pod. Pulling the roof is the crux of the route. From the pod the crack widens from thin hands to offwidth.
Standard Rack for protection. Two bolt anchor. Rap rings.
|By Adam Kimmerly|
Jul 29, 2009
Great route! Difficult, burly, and awkward. A #5 wild country or BD is nice for the wide crack near the top. Small-med cams protect the crux at the bottom well. This thing is definitely harder than 10a and therefore deserves the infamous 5.9+ rating.
|By Brett Brotherton|
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 22, 2011
Ah how I love 5.9+ this a fantastic climb, 5.9+ seems like a fair rating! Great gear, I left the #5 on the ground and was able to protect the offwidth section up top with a #4 Camalot by putting it deep in the crack. Besides compared to the rest of the climb the "offwidth" section is a cruise.
Great lead not to be missed!
|By Jason Scott Heacock|
Dec 5, 2011
Before I was clibing more regularly I did this route with a great pair of gloves that made the hand jams easier (maybe thats cheating) now I climb much harder but im sort of stuck here in New England, missing Mission Gorge to death!!
Jan 5, 2012
Can somebody explain this rating? The four of us who spent a day trying to send this route all agreed it stands minimum 10a. Is 5.9+ a joking way to label 5.10 routes?
Also note that this climb gets much harder if you're shorter than 5 foot 10 in.
Jan 19, 2012
Probably the most awkward route I've ever climbed.