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Tim Schafstall on the start of Maria Direct
This is a variation to Maria's first pitch that offers great 5.9 face climbing.
Start well right of Maria just below a short right-facing flake and corner that start 10' off the ground. Make bouldery moves past a pin into a very small right-facing corner. A few more hard moves will bring you on a welcome stance with good gear. Finish by heading into the Maria corner - there is usually a fixed-sling anchor there.
Small gear with a high fixed pin off the ground. A standard rack as for Maria.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Apr 21, 2009
For those under, say, 5'5", the initial boulder problem to the rail is a hard deadpoint. Some may say it's a 5.9 route with a hard 5.10 move.
|By Kalil Oldham|
From: NY, NY
Nov 14, 2010
I found the move to the pin relatively straightforward, if reachy. Above the pin things got a little dicier ... didn't find good gear 'til the ledge. Am I missing something?
Nov 29, 2010
You can get gear once your feet are level with the pin, but not before.
|By Jaysen Henderson|
Jul 5, 2011
I found that after clipping the pin and backing it up, your belayer needs to pay very close attention. If you fall climbing up to the next placement, you're likely to deck if the belayer has too much slack out. Aside from that, the rest of the route is pleasant and Maria was spectacular. Doing the Direct was an easy choice for me because I hate traversing. I'd recommend this route if you can keep it together through the start.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Mar 11, 2012
Tough for 5.9 I was already drained from prior days of climbing and hiking, so this requires a bit more than the average 9 for a couple moves. Tall people (I'm 6' 3") will reach the horizontal with the pin, everyone else has to either dyno or make a very tough (5.10-ish) balancy move to get high enough. Not the best start for a 5.6 climb.
Mar 12, 2012
Neither a deadpoint nor a dyno is necessary. (I'm 5' 6.5".) If you're short like me, just look around, you can make a single thin move up off the ground and reach the rail.
|By david berman|
Mar 23, 2012
I found this a sweet climb with an exciting opening. I'm 5'4 and was able to hit the move.