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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Maria Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Turner, 1958
Page Views: 2,975
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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Tim Schafstall on the start of Maria Direct


This is a variation to Maria's first pitch that offers great 5.9 face climbing.

Start well right of Maria just below a short right-facing flake and corner that start 10' off the ground. Make bouldery moves past a tapering horizontal with a pin, into a very small right-facing corner. A few more hard moves will bring you on a welcome stance with good gear. Finish by heading into the Maria corner - there is usually a fixed-sling anchor there.


Standard rack.

Photos of Maria Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Opening Moves of Maria Direct
Opening Moves of Maria Direct

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By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For those under, say, 5'5", the initial boulder problem to the rail is a hard deadpoint. Some may say it's a 5.9 route with a hard 5.10 move.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 14, 2010

I found the move to the pin relatively straightforward, if reachy. Above the pin things got a little dicier ... didn't find good gear 'til the ledge. Am I missing something?
By losbill
Nov 15, 2010

By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Jul 5, 2011

I found that after clipping the pin and backing it up, your belayer needs to pay very close attention. If you fall climbing up to the next placement, you're likely to deck if the belayer has too much slack out. Aside from that, the rest of the route is pleasant and Maria was spectacular. Doing the Direct was an easy choice for me because I hate traversing. I'd recommend this route if you can keep it together through the start.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Tough for 5.9 I was already drained from prior days of climbing and hiking, so this requires a bit more than the average 9 for a couple moves. Tall people (I'm 6' 3") will reach the horizontal with the pin, everyone else has to either dyno or make a very tough (5.10-ish) balancy move to get high enough. Not the best start for a 5.6 climb.
By SethG
Mar 12, 2012

Neither a deadpoint nor a dyno is necessary. (I'm 5' 6.5".) If you're short like me, just look around, you can make a single thin move up off the ground and reach the rail.
By david berman
Mar 23, 2012

I found this a sweet climb with an exciting opening. I'm 5'4 and was able to hit the move.
By Andy Casler
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Not ashamed to say that I stick clipped the pin and then backed it up with a .75 once I got up there.

At 5' 8", the crux was right off the deck until about 20 feet up.

The gear is tricky and marginal until the climbing gets to easy.

Williams says this was the first gunks 5.9 though, so I say keep the sandbag!
By Rob D.
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 27, 2015

I didn't find the low move to the pin to be hard but I found the move out of from there to be pumpy and unprotected, unless I missed gear after the pin before the ledge? Great climb regardless and cuts off the contrived (classic) traverse start to an otherwise straight line.
By Boz Wilkes
From: New Paltz, NY
May 7, 2015

The move to clip (and back up) at the horizontal is fairly simple once you see the plentiful (albeit thin) feet. But I found pushing through the next two moves with no obvious protection pushed the grade a notch and possibility of decking became a real issue. Need a really competent belayer to give just enough slack when needed but ready to suck it up quickly.

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