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Palisades Park
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Marginal Monster (M&M) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Mar 2, 2014

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Description 

Great moves and epic fun the whole way!

Clamber onto the ledge above the trail. Start up the face above to a toaster oven-sized block below the first overhang. Reach to the obvious jug above the overhang -- gear is available in a horizontal up and right from the jug. Work your way over the hang and into a nice rest in a shallow left-facing corner. Plug in some gear, then move up and right to a pedestal ledge and more pro. Continue working right and up till you're below the corner. Feeling the pump yet? Lunge up to the corner, and then finagle your way up the corner to glory.

To descend, a short walk-off climber's left will bring you to the descent gully on the left end of Meditation point.

Location 

Meditation Point. Locate the long plank forming a bench on the side of the trail, which marks the left end of Meditation Point. From here, walk climber's right around the bend, beneath a large roof. Toward the right end of the roof, a ledge system about 10 feet above the trail will appear. This ledge system is the start of the climb. A gently overhanging face leads up and right to a right-facing, right leaning corner near the top of the cliff.

Protection 

standard rack, doubling up on .75 Camalots might make you happy

There are no anchors at the top of this climb. You can either build a gear anchor at the top, or bring some long webbing for the trees.


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