This is a great approach pitch to Bookmark's Library Ledge, even if BACKFLIP or BELLYFLOP are not taken. The 1st 20 feet will school ya in Lumpy flared cracks.... Hike up 50 feet left from the base of BACKFLIP to a flat, sandy spot below a [straight] up groove, that is thin at first then widens. Those crystals at the start are might small for 5.9...but after a few foot shifts and opposition moves, the crack opens to easier jamming. Some nice 5.7 or 8 leads to a small ledge 50 feet below Library Ledge. One can traverse right to the anchors on BELLYFLOP and rap 75 feet or continue to the summit.
Standard Lumpy Ridge rack, with allowances for more gear if summiting.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 6, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No way this is 5.9. Nicer as a 5.8 A1, aiding off of 2 Aliens to start.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This can be 5.9+, but you have to wait for the lichen on the start to completely dry off. It seems to retain water longer than most things around there.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Mar 19, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The start--first few moves off the ground--may constitute the crux. Taller climbers may find this easier, but the 2 "shorties" I was climbing with when I did the route had some trouble. Slightly difficult to protect in spots.